
La Sassella and wineyards
in Valtellina - Apt Valtellina archive |
Deeply carved out by receding glaciers at the end of the
last ice age, the Northern Italian lakes are most spectacular
introductions to the Italian Alps.
The Alps massif to the north protects them from the brunt of
winter weather, so that they enjoy relatively mild climates
with respect to their alpine neighbors or locales north of the
divide. As soon as one ascends from the lakes, however, winding
up steep, narrow valleys, the weather takes a turn for the alpine
rather quickly. Many of the valleys off of Lake
Como, perhaps the most dramatic lake of them all, have
little in the way of arable land, not to mention good sites
for habitation. The greatest of these valleys, the east-west
running Valtellina, is wide and fertile enough to have supported
human settlement since ancient times. It is shaped by the flow
of the Adda River, which in addition to feeding Lake
Como at its northern ends also serves to drain the lake at its
southeast corner, at the city of Lecco; many tributaries
flow into the Adda along its course, forming the numerous north-south
valleys that intersect the main Valtellina artery. From the
Adda source in the Stelvio National Park on the border,
to the northeast of the lake on the border with Switzerland,
the wide valley makes its way down entrance on Lake Como. Due
to its key position at the foot of several mountain passes it
came to be an important trade corridor: perhaps something of
a surprise considering its location, wine has been its principal
export product for many centuries. Here a variant of the Nebbiolo
grape, the same used for Piedmont's noble Barolo and
Barbaresco, is grown extensively on the high terraces
that line the valley. The wine is superb, a worthy comparison
to its more renowned Langhe
cousins.
Aside from wine exportation, however, the valley until
recently had developed very few other business enterprises.
Its vicinity to the Bernina and other alpine passes to
the north meant that there was a certain extent of commerce;
however the great majority of Valtellina residents continued
to work the land as their ancestors had until the middle of
last century. The Grigioni family, long-time rulers of
the valley, regarded the Valtellina as their personal vineyard
and thus did little to promote other business or agricultural
affairs of their subjects, not to mention personal, religious
or political liberties. During adverse climatic conditions,
during times of war or pestilence, valley residents suffered
immensely, many emigrating. The 19th century was a particularly
disastrous period, after two cholera epidemics, a 'mini-ice
age' cooling and the destruction of 90% of their vines by disease
(wine producing was still by far the greatest export). The then
sovereigns, the Austrian Habsburgs, sponsored a lottery to give
aid to the region, and asked the Empire's brightest economic
minds to help Valtellina emerge from its crisis. So dire was
the situation in fact that Austrian newspapers referred to the
region as the "Irish Lombardy".

Lago Azzurro Madesimo - Apt Valtellina archive |
Widespread emigration however did not cease until well after
the Second World War, however. Indeed, the 1920s saw a mini-revolution
of valley residents against the kingdom of Italy, signs of continuing
woe for valley residents.
Morena Tevisio recalls that her father Sergio, the second oldest
of seven brothers, left home for work at the age of nine (this
was in the early 1950s), working as a shepherd in the mountains
above his village of Buglio in Monte (above Morbegno).
From age nine to fifteen Sergio worked as a shepherd until his
father moved his entire family to Como,
the principal city of the southern end of the homonymous lake,
where there were many more work opportunities. Many Valtellina
natives in fact emigrated to Como and the nearby Brianza
region; some went as far away as Australia to start a new life.
Many years later, after having earned enough to retire, Morena's
grandparents moved back to the valley, their ancestral home. Today
the valley population has stabilized, though with the low birthrates
it is an aging populace.
The Valtellina has seen economic revival only in recent
decades, when at last non-agricultural businesses, such as banking,
have made strong headway particularly in the major towns of Sondrio
and Morbegno. Tourism has also developed significantly,
as the valley has become both a summer and winter destination.
Even historic winemaking has improved production along modern
lines while retaining its traditional and classic appeal. Yet,
notwithstanding recent development the Valtellina is still very
much an isolated mountain region, largely untouched by the industrialization
of nearby Milan or
other cities of the Lombard plain. For this reason a visit to
the Valtellina is highly recommended in any season. Come for the
colors of the forest and grape harvest in the fall or skiing in
the winter, come to see the wildflowers that blanket the region
in the spring or go trekking in the summer.
Indeed those who enjoy outdoor sports such as hiking or skiing
will be very pleased with what the valley has to offer, the rugged,
untouched mountain wilderness dotted with ancient villages - a
panorama that has been unchanged for centuries.
Several excellent hiking and skiing opportunities have been
outlined below. In addition there is a brief discussion of Valtellina
cuisine: despite the harshness of the terrain and climate Valtellina
natives have developed a myriad of special foods, a simple yet
wonderful cuisine that goes hand-in-hand their fabulous local
wines.
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