Vibrant Valtellina:       
A Unique Mountain Paradise

by David Leibowitz




La Sassella and wineyards in Valtellina - Apt Valtellina archive

Deeply carved out by receding glaciers at the end of the last ice age, the Northern Italian lakes are most spectacular introductions to the Italian Alps.
The Alps massif to the north protects them from the brunt of winter weather, so that they enjoy relatively mild climates with respect to their alpine neighbors or locales north of the divide. As soon as one ascends from the lakes, however, winding up steep, narrow valleys, the weather takes a turn for the alpine rather quickly. Many of the valleys off of Lake Como, perhaps the most dramatic lake of them all, have little in the way of arable land, not to mention good sites for habitation. The greatest of these valleys, the east-west running Valtellina, is wide and fertile enough to have supported human settlement since ancient times. It is shaped by the flow of the Adda River, which in addition to feeding Lake Como at its northern ends also serves to drain the lake at its southeast corner, at the city of Lecco; many tributaries flow into the Adda along its course, forming the numerous north-south valleys that intersect the main Valtellina artery. From the Adda source in the Stelvio National Park on the border, to the northeast of the lake on the border with Switzerland, the wide valley makes its way down entrance on Lake Como. Due to its key position at the foot of several mountain passes it came to be an important trade corridor: perhaps something of a surprise considering its location, wine has been its principal export product for many centuries. Here a variant of the Nebbiolo grape, the same used for Piedmont's noble Barolo and Barbaresco, is grown extensively on the high terraces that line the valley. The wine is superb, a worthy comparison to its more renowned Langhe cousins.

Aside from wine exportation, however, the valley until recently had developed very few other business enterprises. Its vicinity to the Bernina and other alpine passes to the north meant that there was a certain extent of commerce; however the great majority of Valtellina residents continued to work the land as their ancestors had until the middle of last century. The Grigioni family, long-time rulers of the valley, regarded the Valtellina as their personal vineyard and thus did little to promote other business or agricultural affairs of their subjects, not to mention personal, religious or political liberties. During adverse climatic conditions, during times of war or pestilence, valley residents suffered immensely, many emigrating. The 19th century was a particularly disastrous period, after two cholera epidemics, a 'mini-ice age' cooling and the destruction of 90% of their vines by disease (wine producing was still by far the greatest export). The then sovereigns, the Austrian Habsburgs, sponsored a lottery to give aid to the region, and asked the Empire's brightest economic minds to help Valtellina emerge from its crisis. So dire was the situation in fact that Austrian newspapers referred to the region as the "Irish Lombardy".


Lago Azzurro Madesimo - Apt Valtellina archive

Widespread emigration however did not cease until well after the Second World War, however. Indeed, the 1920s saw a mini-revolution of valley residents against the kingdom of Italy, signs of continuing woe for valley residents.
Morena Tevisio recalls that her father Sergio, the second oldest of seven brothers, left home for work at the age of nine (this was in the early 1950s), working as a shepherd in the mountains above his village of Buglio in Monte (above Morbegno). From age nine to fifteen Sergio worked as a shepherd until his father moved his entire family to Como, the principal city of the southern end of the homonymous lake, where there were many more work opportunities. Many Valtellina natives in fact emigrated to Como and the nearby Brianza region; some went as far away as Australia to start a new life. Many years later, after having earned enough to retire, Morena's grandparents moved back to the valley, their ancestral home. Today the valley population has stabilized, though with the low birthrates it is an aging populace.

The Valtellina has seen economic revival only in recent decades, when at last non-agricultural businesses, such as banking, have made strong headway particularly in the major towns of Sondrio and Morbegno. Tourism has also developed significantly, as the valley has become both a summer and winter destination. Even historic winemaking has improved production along modern lines while retaining its traditional and classic appeal. Yet, notwithstanding recent development the Valtellina is still very much an isolated mountain region, largely untouched by the industrialization of nearby Milan or other cities of the Lombard plain. For this reason a visit to the Valtellina is highly recommended in any season. Come for the colors of the forest and grape harvest in the fall or skiing in the winter, come to see the wildflowers that blanket the region in the spring or go trekking in the summer.
Indeed those who enjoy outdoor sports such as hiking or skiing will be very pleased with what the valley has to offer, the rugged, untouched mountain wilderness dotted with ancient villages - a panorama that has been unchanged for centuries.

Several excellent hiking and skiing opportunities have been outlined below. In addition there is a brief discussion of Valtellina cuisine: despite the harshness of the terrain and climate Valtellina natives have developed a myriad of special foods, a simple yet wonderful cuisine that goes hand-in-hand their fabulous local wines.





Back to:
DolceVita travel italy