DolceVita Travel: Valtellina

Winter in Valtellina - Apt Valtellina archive

Valtellina's breathtaking natural beauty is best experienced slowly moving up the valley from nearly sea level at Lake Como to the 4,000-meter summit of Pizzo Bernino. The lowest elevations, which were once extensive meadows, are now home to many of the region's industries and handicraft producers. Further up, to about 700 meters elevation, lies the marvelous grape vine terraces, apple orchards, and on the shady side of the Orobie Alps and in the valleys a great chestnut forest, at one time explicitly cultivated but by now grown into a natural forest. The highest of the regularly settled villages are about 800 meters elevation. The upper slope of the chestnut forest is mixed with beech, poplar, pine, and larch until treeline is reached above 1500 meters, about the upper limit of the spring pastures and seasonal settlements. Above treeline there are many wonderful bushes such as the rhododendron, whose spring flowers turn the mountainside into a carpet of color. The alpeggi, or summer pasture settlements, may be found as high as 2200 meters elevation. Not all places are adequate for pasturing, however: many of the mountains here were quite steeply carved out by the glacier, making them more suited for climbers than sheep herds.

On foot or ski one may truly experience the wild beauty of the valley. Here are a few suggestions for the explorer:

Monte Legnone (2609 m) rises on the border between Lake Como and the Valtellina. Climb from the Rifugio Alpe Scoggione on the north slope of the mountain to the rocky summit ridge, which affords panoramic views of the lake and valley. Come in the spring when bright rhododendrons cover the entire mountain slope. In the winter there is fine backcountry skiing.

In the Valtellina turn north up Val Masino to San Martino, where one can hike a beautiful three-day loop. The zone is initially very wild and rugged, and becomes even more rocky and dramatic as one climbs to the Bivacco Molteni Valsecchi, where one can spend the night. Watch out for groups of shy, agile chamois - bring binoculars, as they usually sprint away upon human approach. Next day, underneath the 3200-meter Pizzi del Ferro peaks, traverse the Sentiero Italia to Rifugio Allievi and Rifugio Bonacossa, where one may stay the night and enjoy homemade mountain specialties for dinner. The following day enjoy a long descent to the lovely Valle di Mello and back to San Martino. To cap off the trip head afterward to the Terme Bagni Masino, a nearby thermal springs where one may relax those aching after-trek muscles.

Further east up Valtellina lies the Val Malenco, renowned for its excellent rock climbing and itineraries over 3000 meters. From the head of the valley, Chiesa in Val Malenco, many trails depart toward the great peaks above, which include the dominating Monte Disgrazia (3678 m) and Pizzo Bernina (4049 m). Both of these glacier-clad peaks (particularly the latter, whose immense glaciers extend all the way to St. Moritz in the north) should be climbed with a professional alpine guide. There are a few ski slopes in Val Malenco, but infinite opportunities for backcountry skiing.

The Stelvio National Park, at the head of the Valtellina, is one of Italy's oldest and most extensive wilderness areas. Days of magnificent trekking, snowshoeing and backcountry skiing may be enjoyed here in the shadow of majestic Ortles (3905 m) and Cevedale (3757 m) peaks. In addition there is excellent summer skiing on the glacier here from May to November. In the winter, too, one may find great skiing here (at Bormio) as well as at nearby resorts such as Madesimo, Livigno, Solda and Passo Tonale.