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To say that a certain place has the most fortunate history
in Calabria may not be the greatest of complements. And it is
not as if this locale escaped centuries of pirate invasions
(on the contrary, for it is on the sea), many different rulers
from throughout the Western world and beyond, repeated earthquakes
and the stagnation of recent times. But while the decline of
"recent times" in the rest of Calabria may by traced
back to the fall of the Swabians (late 1200s), the noble town
of Tropea, stunningly built on cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea,
enjoyed a relatively high level of freedom and prosperity until
much later (1800s).
Why should they have been so lucky? The reason is perhaps quite
a simple one: Tropea residents managed to back the right boat
in every battle for the region. Beginning with the Normans (11th
century), Tropea demonstrated particular loyalty to each ruling
house, and as a reward obtained special trade and other privileges.
The town took a big gamble when backing the Aragonese, who came
to power in 1442 during a rather turbulent period in Calabrian
politics. At one point during the power struggle Tropea may
have been the only remaining Aragonese supporter (as recorded
on the town's coat of arms: sola Tropea sub fidelitate remansit:
only Tropea remains faithful), but in the end the Spaniards
were victorious.
The victors rewarded their greatest ally with many additional
privileges. While the rest of Calabria was to sink into a feudal
quagmire from which it has only recently emerged, Tropea was
to remain a direct demesne of the Aragonese (and later Bourbon)
princes. This meant that the town was ruled directly by the
princes, without any intermediary feudal lords who tended to
severely limit their subjects' freedom.
Tropea received other rights aiding its commerce, and was even
granted land of its own, which included some 24 surrounding
hamlets.
With all of these advantages the town became a very wealthy
commercial center, attracting many merchants and noble families,
evidence of whom is still visible in the town's remaining palazzi.
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Only with the arrival of the French in the early 19th century
did Tropea's trade, territorial and other freedoms come to an end
(ironically, with the arrival of the "liberator" Napolean
and his crew). From then on Tropea joined the rest of southern Italy
in its unhappy modern history.
Natural and economic disasters notwithstanding, one of the gravest
blows was the exodus of huge numbers of its native sons to other
parts of Europe and beyond. Unfortunately this sad phenomenon continues
to the present day, as people (particularly youth) will continue
to move to where there is the opportunity for work and advancement.
Calabria seems to have been among the slowest to develop of southern
regions since Italian unification.
In terms of tourism development it is still well behind that of
regions like Sicily. However there is hope, particularly with those
of the younger generations who are not escaping to pursue more profitable
work in the Italian North or elsewhere.
In Tropea, it should be noted, tourism has made a particularly strong
impact in recent decades, perhaps more than any other place in Calabria.
Again, this may be luck of the draw: Tropea is blessed with some
of the most magnificent seacoast in Calabria. Or perhaps it's tied
to their history of always backing the right horse.
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