One
doesn't have to travel far into the interior of Capo Vaticano
to reach a realm far different from that of "privileged
Tropea". In fact, during the low tourist season, in winter
months, even villages near the sea appear caught in another
era.
Take the hamlet of Coccorino, not far above the tip of the promontory.
In the summer the Coccorino marina fills with renters, though
certainly it is much less hectic than Tropea and environs. Certainly
some of these vacationers must venture up to the Coccorino historic
center, a two-minute drive from the sea and some 359 meters
above it.
Nevertheless, this author arrived in mid-winter and felt like
the first foreigner to have ever set foot in the place. A poor,
crumbling hamlet, Coccorino is now mostly made up of older folk,
the younger ones still escaping to pursue opportunity elsewhere
(many town folk have relatives in America or northern Italy).
Coccorino houses often have wooden terraces, from which residents
can dry their fichi d'India (prickly pears) in the sun.
The peasant culture here seems to come right out of the 17th
(or 12th) century, as residents still make many of their own
necessities -- bread, for example, is still baked at home in
traditional pyramid ovens. Nor do residents appear all that
reliant on an outside world, one that has done little but take
advantage of them since time immemorial.

With the rise in responsible tourism, the influx of vacationers
who no longer want to sit on the beach for the month but truly
want to explore and get to know the land, there has been a marked
appreciation of traditional local products throughout Italy.
And as with the pizza (a southern Italian invention), today
many diverse Italian products ranging from food to crafts are
receiving accolades throughout the world.
Hopefully the rage for things Italian will eventually have a
positive effect for Calabrian farmers as well. In the Capo Vaticano
area, for example, the typical hill town of Spilinga has become
famous as the home of the great 'Nduja, a hot sauce/condiment
made from pork meat and spicy red peppers.
Also rightfully recognized are the zone's red onions, renowned
for their extraordinary sweetness.
The
oil from the area is excellent, ranging widely in taste depending
on the month the olives are picked.
The local wine is quite good and powerful depending on the producer
(all that sun can really up the alcoholic content) - visit the
towns of Ciaramiti, Brattirò and Drapia for tastings.
The town of Poro is known for its cheeses and milk products,
all produced in traditional manner. Meanwhile back along the
sea some of the best tuna and seafood can be found from Pizzo
to Bivona, including the bottarga, obtained from tuna
fish ovaries and a wonderful addition to spaghetti sauces.
Finally, Pizzo is known as the originator of the chocolate ice
cream tartufo; no trip to town would be complete without
indulging in at least three.