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To find the purest air in Europe one need not wander to
highest reaches of the Alps or extreme northern Scandinavia.
Rather, one need only head down to the far south of Italy, to
a vast forested plateau deep in the interior of Calabria known
as the Sila, the largest high altitude plain in Europe, with
an average elevation of over 1,000 meters. The Sila is split
into three different sections: the northernmost Sila Greca toward
the Greek ruins of Sibari, the central Sila Grande in the province
of Cosenza, and the Sila Piccola in the province of Catanzaro.
The Sila Grande, Sila Piccola and the Aspromonte (much further
south toward Reggio Calabria) constitute the non-contiguous
Parco Nazionale della Calabria. Efforts are currently underway
to expand the park, to connect the three sections so as to provide
a continuous ecosystem. There have been several success stories
in recent years, including that of park symbol, the wolf, which
is making a comeback. The wolf's rise, however, has provoked
significant controversy, as it is in Yellowstone National Park,
USA: surrounding farms complain that the predator has already
starting killing their livestock.
The Sila was for centuries exploited for its immense natural
wealth. Logging was a major industry here, though the forest
had a myriad of other riches: merchants used to travel traveled
all the way from England to collect maple syrup, for example.
Beginning with the Normans, with their long tradition of keeping
royal forests, rulers of the land reaped profits from the territory,
which remained in the hands of feudal landholders until the
unity of Italy. A few of these landholders deserve profound
thanks, those that bequeathed their forests intact to the state
- the park may be said to have its origins in these donations.
One particularly important bequest was that of Fallistro and
its centuries-old giant pines, today a nature reserve. Most
of the rest of the forest is much younger, less than one hundred
years old. Like the forests of New England, USA (which the Sila
greatly resembles), after extensive logging there was not much
left of the original forest by the late 19th century. Thanks
to conscientious planning and action of in particular local
enthusiasts, the forest was replanted and in 1968 the National
Park established: today the forest may not be primordial but
it certainly feels like it.