The small town of Camogli is a great place to explore. Its houses are clustered together above the sea, and are brilliantly painted "trompe l'oeuil", with fake windows, balustrades, etc… One would think for the money they put into painting their homes they could have easily put in real windows etc., but of course that is not the point.

If you arrive on the second Sunday of May you might be able to crash Camogli's Fish Festival ('Sagra del Pesce'), where the town cooks up fish free for those who wish (apparently many do as the town is packed for the festival). During the summer months the little beach is jammed with bathers; during summer weekends and in August the town is particularly overwhelmed. It's enough to take a look around, eat some focaccia, fill up on water, apply sunscreen, and head for the trailhead. Don't eat too much focaccia, though, as oil does not sit will in one's stomach during a hot, strenuous hike. But be sure to try the Ligurian specialty cheese focaccia, made with Stracchino cheese (mmh!). You must bring water with you if you are hiking on a typical warm, sunny day; likewise sunscreen is highly recommended. Finally, a "Monte di Portofino" trail map is very useful.

At the southern edge of town (toward the bulging Portofino Promontory), there is a trailhead, the beginning of the trail for San Rocco di Camogli. For the duration of the trek you will be following the trail with two painted red dots as a trail marker. The trail ascends steeply in places above and south of Camogli, skirting several beautiful villas and gardens. After about half an hour you will have reached San Rocco, with its trompe l'oeuil style church and panoramic views of the sea back to Camogli and even Genoa. Soon after San Rocco you will reach a couple trail intersections; continue on Trail #5 for the Batterie. The forest opens and the trail continues to ascend on the rock face, high above the sea. You have now entered the Portofino wilderness! It is always astounding how easily - with your feet and a little bit of sweat - one can escape the masses even in highly visited areas. After another half-hour you will reach the Batterie, so called because here there are the remains of German anti-aircraft gun emplacements. Rest here for a little while and take in the sea spreading out in front of you. The next hour's hike is above the Promontory cliffs, a bit hair-raising for those afraid of heights, though there are wire railings to assist you in places. Families hike this trail with little children so it is not really that difficult, just somewhat slow at times. The trail crosses hundreds of meters above several coves, where you can watch the blue sea collide with the cliffs far below. In the fall you'll be able to snack on delicious, spiked fruit called corbezzoli, which you can pick from the trees that line the trail. Finally, ascend to a panoramic viewpoint, where a 16th-century watchtower looms nearby. The tower (called the Torre Doria) is like many others that dot the Ligurian coast, in that it was built to keep an eye out for marauding Saracens.

From the viewpoint near the tower, descend steeply to the bottom of a deep cove (about half an hour's hike), where there is a little village dominated by a great domed church. The village is San Fruttuoso, and the church is the famous Abbey of San Fruttuoso, where the great Doria family of Genoa is buried. The abbey has many visitors, since it is easily accessible by boat from either Camogli or Portofino. There is not much else in the village, though the beach here is excellent, perfect for cooling down after the rigors of the hike. Those who have had enough for the day can return from here by boat; alternatively one arrive here by boat from Camogli or Portofino hike only the final, easier 1½ hours of the trek.

The first half-hour, however, is a rigorous ascent from San Fruttuoso to the top of the ridge (termed 'Base "O"'), where one can see into the cove of San Fruttuoso and back along the dramatic coastline traversed earlier in the day. While the final hour of the trek no longer continues over spectacular cliffs, it is as impressive as the earlier climb, passing several villas with magnificent gardens and the tiny villages of Prato, Olmi, and San Sebastiano, still with expansive views of the sea. In spring the area is an explosion of color, though for much of the year the area is in bloom as the growing season is a long one.

At the last of villages, the trail turns into paved road, which descends steeply times to the tiny harbor of Portofino. Approaching from above and behind the town, you'll pass by some very lovely villas before finally reaching Portofino's waterfront and promenade. The houses here are all different shades of pastel, supposedly so that fisherman could tell which house was theirs upon return from the sea. The cafés and restaurants along the promenade may be somewhat pricey, but this is a perfect spot to sit back and watch people go by. If you are here in April, try to make it to the festival of San Giorgio, the patron saint of Portofino, on the 23rd. There is a religious procession in ancient costume, fireworks, and other special events around this time period.

There are regular ferries and buses from Portofino to Santa Margherita; from Santa Margherita there are frequent trains to Camogli or other points north or south along the coast. Those who are very keen can continue on to Santa Margherita, with the following hike in reverse.