When it is too windy to land in Palermo's Punta Raisi International Airport, incoming planes may be redirected to Trapani, about an hour's drive from Palermo on Sicily's northwest coast. Flexible travelers should take solace in this, however, as Trapani is the jumping-off point to the scenic Isole Egadi. From the plane one may spy these isles, shortly before landing in Trapani: their whitewashed homes, ports filled with (or empty of) fishing boats, blue blue water surrounding the coasts. Fishing, particularly tuna, remains the most important industry on the three main islands, Levanzo, Favignana and Marettimo. Tourism is also very important in summer months, though outside of this period the islands are fairly tranquil, not nearly as well known to foreign tourists as Sicily's more famous archipelago, the Isole Eolie (which include the islands of Vulcano, Lipari and Stromboli).

I first visited Marettimo in the beginning of March, just as spring was starting to take effect on the island. The most distant of the Egadi, it is about an hour and a half by the fast ferry from Trapani. Its mountainous mass looms upon approach, and the island is in fact much wilder than the tuna-industry center Favignana or tiny Levanzo. The harbor is quite adorable: Whitewashed, blue shutter homes clutter the port, whose fishing boats match the color of the abodes. Certainly I was the only tourist on the ferry; upon arrival I realized that I was probably also the only tourist on the entire island. I stuck out like a florescent yellow turtleneck at a black tie affair; with my designer backpack and handbag I was definitely not a fisherman returning from some shopping on the mainland or a visit to the "big" island, Favignana. Upon disembarking every pair of eyes glanced (not so furtively) in my direction and conversations halted abruptly. I felt like I had uncovered a long-lost village, as in the musical Brigadoon.

So how does one befriend the natives? First, one must learn how not to offend - many of the residents are older, traditional people, often not happy to see women dressed in provocative ways. Even jeans are not a welcome sight to these people, one elderly woman wearing traditional all black dress actually spat and swore at me upon my arrival. These people have the least to gain from tourism, they only wish to live out their days in the homes of their ancestors (without interruption from impertinent tourists). Most of the islanders, particularly the youth, are however friendly to the opposite extreme. During the ferry trip from Trapani I met several young residents, one of which had a room for me to rent. After arriving and settling in my new abode, I headed over to the bar, where I met other twenty- and thirty-something local folk, finding them to be exceptionally kind and interesting. Most worked as rangers in the forest reserve and thus had many suggestions as to where I should go the following day. That night I joined the group (which was a good mix of boys and girls) for a dinner and dance party. Here I was able to experience island life firsthand, how a close-knit community survives the (not-so-harsh) winter with good cheer. The company was sparkling, the local seafood pasta dishes they prepared spicy and wonderful and the Bob Marley music marathon most amusing.

Marettimo Town is a splendor to behold on approach from the sea or from the rocky heights of the Case Romane, a pleasure to stroll through its narrow lanes, its whitewashed houses with regulation-blue shutters. The people, after their initial surprise, were extremely welcoming; for this reason I would recommend arriving in spring or fall, when locals will have more time to share with you. April and May are particularly fine for a visit, when wildflowers in bloom. Marettimo has a lot offer trekking enthusiasts. Some hiking itineraries are detailed in the next section. Boat tours are also highly recommended - half the island is a trail-less, protected wilderness, so some areas may only be viewed by boat. Some of the most scenic caves include the Grotta del Tuono, Grotta Perciata, Cala Bombarda, Grotta del Cammello (which photographers particularly love), Grotta del Presepio and the Cala Bianca.

Come to Marettimo for the festival of San Giuseppe, patron saint of the island. Activities begin on the 18th and end in a big, all-out party by the 20th. On the 19th, the saint's day, people set up sumptuous altars in their homes and there is a ritual lunch for the entire island. After the ceremony bonfires are lit at the port and the bands begin their program. Another event worth experiencing is the Mattanza, or ritual slaughter of tuna, an ancient rite that takes place in early June. Tourists can watch as fishermen kill their huge prey, sinking hooks into the tuna and dragging it aboard. This is not for the faint of heart, however - the tuna are channeled together in a pool called the camera della morte, room of death and slaughtered.

Arrive to Marettimo by fast ferry, the aliscafo, about an hour and a half from the port of Trapani. It should not be very difficult to find a room outside of August, even if one lands on the island without reservations; locals often greet incoming boats to advertise their available rooms.