The Rifugio Alpenzu Grande (0125-355835, contact Roberto Spocchi) is an excellent place to dine or stay the night along the Walser Trail. Rifugio Gabiet (0125-366258) is a very comfortable winter or summer option. Chef Luigi does a masterful job here; contact Sandro Juglair for reservations. For advice on where to stay in the valley, call the APT tourist office in Gressoney St. Jean (0125-355185) or Gressoney La Trinité (0125-366143).

As for culinary specialties, look out for anything with fontina cheese (strong but not too much so) or polenta (hearty cornmeal glop, usually served with meat); often the two are served together. Mocetta (dried, salted beef) is another specialty, and you will no doubt find other fresh meats (such as rabbit or goat) on the menu. There are excellent local wines to choose from, of red, white, and rosé variety; they are for the most part quite dry and fruity. The Aosta Valley region was spared the worst of the devastating Phylloxera disease of the late 19th century (which destroyed much of Europe's vines) because of the high elevation of its vineyards.

When is the best time to go to Gressoney? All year round the valley has something to offer. The flowers are in full bloom in June, though not all of the rifugi will have opened for the summer season. July and August are the warmest months, but there are also more storms. September the weather improves, but it also becomes cooler. The fall colors peak in late October. Usually the best skiing is in February, when there is ample, dry snow; the mountains may also get dumped in March-April, but it is more likely to be of the wet, Mediterranean variety the later in the season one arrives.

The Gressoney Valley is easy to get to from the cities of northern Italy. From the A5 highway (from Turin or Milan), exit at Pont St-Martin, then follow the signs to Gressoney. It is another forty-five minutes to Gressoney St. Jean, about two hours altogether from Milan. There are also regular buses to and from Milan and Turin to the valley, though you will have to change in Pont St-Martin to reach Gressoney.

The Milan-based Trekking Italia Association (02-8372838, info@trekkingitalia.com) leads numerous hiking and snow-shoeing outings in the region, for both adults and students, and can organize trips for private groups. They also have an office in Washington, D.C. (800-295-2215, exploreeurope@excite.com). Contact Rafaello Mosca in Milan or David Leibowitz in D.C. for more information and to receive a brochure. For off-trail ski guides as well as mountaineering guides (for those who wish to tackle to heights of Monte Rosa), contact Carlo Cugnetto of the Scuola Alpinismo Monte Rosa (0125-366139); they also offer heli-skiing adventures.