|
From the glacier green-blue Lake
Gabiet to the panorama from the Salza Col, those who undertake
this two-day trek will pass by alpine bowls filled with flowers
and marmots and ancient herding settlements.
 |
From Gressoney La Trinité's church (1600
m), you will cross the bridge over the Lys to the stream's eastern
bank. Head south briefly along the road, until you reach a trail
signpost by the entrance of a pizza restaurant. Take a left into
the restaurant driveway (as the sign indicates) until you reach
the beginning of Trail 3 and Trail 4; you will take Trail 4,
which ascends immediately and steeply above the town of Gressoney.
After a rigorous half-hour, you will reach a beautiful open bowl,
which is lush with alpine flowers in June. Despite the false paths
due to grazing sheep, the trail is very well marked throughout
the trek, making it almost impossible to lose the trail (of course
a good map of the region and compass are still necessary). At
1900 meters, the beginning of the bowl, you are more or less above
the treeline. The trail curves left, following the streambed as
you ascend with steady switchbacks to the top of a bowl; after
another two hours you will reach the mostly artificial Lake
Gabiet. Originally a small lake, it is now dammed to produce
hydroelectricity: over 6,000 homes receive their energy from the
lake. The lake is also quite beautiful, green-blue in color from
the glacier-streams that pour into it. Hike Trail 5 along
the lake, and after another half-half you will reach Rifugio
Gabiet, at the north end of the lake (three hours from Gressoney
La Trinité). The rifugio is a wonderful place to stay: they serve
excellent food, and it has a clear view to the west, ideal for
viewing the sunset. Those with more energy can hike around the
nearby hills or even up to the Salati Pass (three hours round
trip), but note that the following day is a long one.
 |
An early start is advisable the next day because
you will be climbing to nearly 3,000 meters -- the weather can
be extreme at any time of year at that altitude. If storms look
likely or you wish to tackle an easier hike, you may descend via
Trail 3 to Stafal, or by Trail 7b, a bit further along the route
described below, which also finishes at Stafal. To follow the
proscribed route for the day, follow Trail 5 from Rifugio
Gabiet to near the bottom of the Gabiet-Salati Gondola (where
there is an intersection with Trail 3), then take Trail 6a
to the right. The trail ascends easily at first, past tiny herding
settlements to a glacially carved basin, where there is a small
pond. Trail 7b intersects the trail at a stream crossing, but
continue straight and uphill on Trail 6a. Now you will begin a
long, steady ascent, as the terrain turns rocky and more difficult
- this is a dangerous region to be during a storm - but note that
the trail is very well marked. At Lake Verde (another small, glacier-green
pond), you will pass the intersection with the trail to Punta
Telcio. Finally, after two hours of climbing from Rifugio Gabiet,
you will have reached the Salza Col, nearly 3,000 meters
above sea level. The views here are spectacular, extending from
the surrounding glacier-clad peaks to the not-so-far-distant Po
River Valley (the great plain that contains the cities of northern
Italy). Near the Salza Col are two trail intersections; you will
stay to the left (turning to the west), on Trail 7c, Trails
6a and 6b continuing uphill (and to the north), to the glaciers
below Monte Rosa.
 |
The two-hour switch-backed descent to Stafal
through the Salza Valley is a beautiful one. You may have
a chance to glissade (slide on snow) part of the way down, which
is always fun -- but you must be careful not to glissade over
streams, where the snow may be weak. Families of marmots (which
are shy rodents) seem to live here, and Rhododendron bushes flourish
in places. Near the bottom of the bowl there are stunning views
of the nearby Lys Glacier to the right (north). Re-enter the woods,
and the descent becomes more gradual, as Trail 7c ends at Trail
7, which itself concludes in Stafal. As a scenic alternative,
you may wish to take Trail 1 to Stafal for the last section, as
it passes by several interesting old settlements. Actually finding
Trail 1is somewhat difficult: at Alpe Courtlys you must take a
right and cross the bridge over the Lys stream - the trail follows
the right-hand (western) bank to Stafal. From the road at Stafal
there are regular buses down the valley for those who have enough
hiking for one trip and desire a hot chocolate / cold beer / hot
bath / massage sooner rather than later. Otherwise it is a tranquil
final hour to Gressoney La Trinité, via Trail 14
and Trail 9. Hiking along the right-hand bank of the Lys,
you will pass through the villages of Cimavalle and Biel before
entering Gressoney La Trinité. Here the hike concludes - though
one could make an excellent three-day trek by completing the section
of the Walser Trail described above, sleeping perhaps at Rifugio
Alpenzu Grande.
|