At 2912 meters the summit of the Corno
Grande is the highest of the Gran Sasso massif and the most
elevated mountain in the Apennines, the long mountain chain
that runs along the spine of Italy. The Gran Sasso stands out
as one of the most impressive massifs in Italy - enough to impress
Leonardo da Vinci, who in 1501 made what is believed to be an
extraordinary design of the chain. The mountains have hosted
human settlement for over four millennia. Historically connected
with a highly developed shepherd culture, there still interesting
villages and fortifications that controlled the passes, shepherd
and trade routes from Rome to the Adriatic Sea. Many of the
spectacular mountain ranges near the Gran Sasso, in fact throughout
much of the Abruzzo region are today protected in national and
natural parks. For outdoor enthusiasts a lifetime of exploration
can be had in these wilderness expanses.
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For thousands of years Abruzzo was the
center of a vast, organized sheep-herding culture, which only
truly came to a close in the last few decades. Shepherds guided
their flock from the green mountain pastures in summer to the
fertile plains of the Adriatic Sea of faraway Apulia in winter.
Thanks to Pax Romana, and the economic support of Roman patrician
families, the shepherds were able to move great distances with
their flock, a migration much favored because of the richness
of the Apulian sea plain. Before and after the period of Roman
stability, shepherds would only descend to the adjacent Abruzzo
coast for the winter for fear of attack from marauders. From
the 12th century onward, however, with the Normans, the Cistercian
Benedictines and later the Aragonese, shepherding once again
became an organized trade and the long migration routes again
back in use, actually they even came to be protected by law.
When the law began to favor crop-growers in the 19th century,
however, it was the beginning of the end of shepherding. Today
shepherd "ghost-towns" are all that remain of this
once vibrant, though difficult way of life. Shepherds would
spend up to 11 months of the year together with their sheep,
during which time they would walk some 250 km to reach winter
or summer grazing ground (therefore some 500 km walked each
year counting only the major seasonal migration routes).
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One would hope, notwithstanding the constant
peril and loneliness that shepherds were able to cultivate a
deep appreciation for the magnificent, if sometimes stark beauty
of the natural environment. The Abruzzo has hosted many ascetics
throughout its history who found its wild setting ideal for
contemplation. One of the most famous hermits was Abruzzo native
Pietro da Morrone, who became Pope Celestine V in 1294. While
best known for being the only pope to have ever abdicated (and
thus ignobly placed by Dante in his "Limbo"), Celestine
was highly regarded in his times as a holy man. His "Great
Pardon" was the inspiration for the future Jubilees of
Rome, as it granted indulgences to everyone, including the poor
and helpless who normally could not have afforded them. The
Great Pardon is still celebrated every year in the city of Aquila,
Abruzzo capital.
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Several national and natural parks, as
well as nature reserves were founded in the Abruzzo to protect
the region's natural beauty. Some of the most exciting recent
developments have included the successful reintroduction of
the Abruzzo chamois, quite diverse from its Alpine relative,
and the existence of small populations of wolves and brown bears.
Outdoor enthusiasts will find it a delight to explore a mountain
zone often compared to the Alps or Scandinavia, yet one that
remains somewhat off the usual European circuit. Several backcountry
skiing, trekking and mountain biking excursions are described
below.
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For more
information on the Abruzzo and outdoor opportunities within,
please see the fine series of guides produced by the Regione
Abruzzo and Carsa Edizioni including: Along the Shepherds' Tracks,
Guida alle meraviglie sconosciute, Guida ai Parchi e Riserve
Naturali, Guida allo sci di fondo and Guida al mountain biking.
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