In the Gran Paradiso there is walking for everyone, from young school children to experienced trekkers. For the former, one highly recommended outing would be to the old grazing huts above Valnontey, just up the valley from the former mining town of Cogne. Today Cogne and Valnontey have successfully switched to a tourism-based economy, with many fine inns and restaurants located here. At Valnontey in particular there is an excellent restaurant in the central piazza, where polenta alla valdostana (polenta with fontina) and chamois beef are served among other specialties.

For the hike, begin walking in the lovely green basin of Cogne, toward the village of Valnontey. The Gran Paradiso and other peaks loom spectacularly ahead; one is inspired up the switchbacks from Valnontey on the trail toward Rifugio Vittorio Sella. Still below but approaching treeline, after about forty minutes of switchbacks, turn off the trail to the refuge by taking a left over an old bridge. Up the other side brings one to a large meadow where there are the ruins of several former grazing huts known as the Casolari de la Toule. This is also prime grazing territory for ibex and chamois - come in the spring to see possibly numerous groups of animals. Be sure to keep your distance, particularly with the more sensitive chamois, as the short warm season is the only time these animals can gain nourishment for the long winter ahead. Continually running away from human voyeurs costs them too much energy. It is worth keeping a low profile also for other reasons - to better observe the animals in their customary interaction -- the playful ramming of the young males is particularly suggestive.

After a picnic lunch, head back down to Valnontey from the Casolari to conclude this easy half-day walk. For those who wish to walk a full day's route, or perhaps stay overnight in a mountain refuge, Rifugio Vittorio Sella is an optimal location. Again on prime ibex terrain (though the animals here are quite accustomed to humans by now), here one may also dine well on local specialties - as at other mountain refuges throughout Italy, the cuisine is not lacking. Moreover, here one may experience true "rifugio spirit": i.e., the fun social atmosphere that arises when lots of active people are together in the same isolated place. On nice days the extensive lawn in front of the refuge turns into a veritable beach, with everyone including the ibex relaxing and sunning themselves.

Aside from the few grand refuges that attract scores during the short summer period, the great majority of the park remains mostly unvisited even during the warm months; and outside of summer the park is more or less deserted save for occasional skiers. Hikers looking to avoid the hut masses have many options, ranging from single day to weeklong, even cross-border excursions into the Vanoise. One superb itinerary entails an early start from Valnontey. Continue up to Rifugio Sella then head south toward the Colle del Herbetet. Below this col is rustic Bivouac Leonessa where one can stay overnight (bring food), dramatically positioned directly beneath the white dome of the Gran Paradiso. The following day, after a short but intense climb to the Colle del Herbetet, enjoy a long, marvelous descent into the Valsavaranche, one of the most beautiful of the entire park. The Savoia must have thought so too, for one of their (in particular Victor Emanuel II's) favorite hunting lodges, Orvieille, is located up the other side of the valley. Note that this descent is difficult in places and could very well be covered in snow near the top. Take care, bring a good map and don't do this alone - overall though the descent from the glacier into the majestic, narrow forested valley is a fantastic one, well worth the effort. The local marmots, cute park sentinels, will cheer you on with their shrill whistles (actually warning their neighbors of your approach). The main Col Lauson route from Rifugio Sella may be a bit easier than the Colle del Herbetet, but the latter is more interesting for its remoteness and the spectacular descent into Valsavaranche. Both require hikers to be in excellent physical condition and to have good previous mountain experience.

Once in the Valsavarenche, relax overnight at the lovely agriturismo at Bien or at one of the other small inns nearby (there is bus service in the valley). The following day one has a myriad of possibilities to choose from - hike up to Orvieille, continue to the next valley to the west, the Rhêmes Valley, or head south to Rifugio Savoia and into France.
For more information on lodging in Gran Paradiso National Park and surrounding areas please contact the Aosta tourist office at +39.0165.236627