Along the Royal Hunting Paths of Gran Paradiso National Park
by David Leibowitz



The Savoia dynasty ruled Italy from 1861 until the establishment of the Italian Republic in 1946, but historically their interests were not centered over the heart of the peninsula. Rather, the center of their extensive pre-Italy domain was great arc of the Western Alps, the current French-Italian border. From 1032 on, in fact, the mountainous terrain of the Aosta Valley was an integral part of the Savoia State. Today this most northwest of Italian regions bears witness to this long heritage, with many strategic castles visible throughout. The Savoia made their fortune controlling the alpine passes in their territory, and the castles facilitated the collection of tolls as well as protected the route from bandits. The fortifications proved formidable against warring adversaries: the only interlude of foreign rule over nine centuries was that of Napoleon in the early 1800s, and even he had to resort to trickery to conquer the region. The Corsican feared the impregnable Bard castle, so he decided to sneak past it during the night with his troops - and on his return from successful battle in the plains razed the ancient fortress to the ground.

But strategic positions and warfare are not the first things that come to mind upon entering the Aosta Valley from the Piedmont plains. Rather, as a mountain wonderland encloses travelers, one realizes that here there is more than enough stunning material to satiate the senses. High, glacier and snow-covered peaks with narrow valleys leading up to them, each of these in turn aching to be explored with who knows how many lovely alpine lakes, villages, or huts to be found there. The interesting Roman town of Aosta should be visited along with other remnants of the past such as the Roman bridge of Pont Saint Martin or the numerous chapels that dot the mountainsides. As with many other regions of Italy, there is an exceptional mix of both cultural and natural beauty. Thanks in part to conservation efforts by its long-time rulers a good portion of the Aosta Valley is now protected parkland. The vastest of these is the Gran Paradiso National Park, which is managed together with the adjoining Vanoise National Park in France. Formerly the Savoia's favorite hunting spot, Gran Paradiso is still today a magnificent mountain wilderness. For walkers there are innumerable opportunities to explore the park, from simple day hikes to long distance treks. Hike to a mountain refuge at the foot of a glacier, spy families of ibex, chamois and marmots, or pass a former royal hunting lodge. Contemplate, solemnly, the great Gran Paradiso itself, the only 4,000-meter peak entirely within Italian soil. This sublime massif would not be out of place in a less wilderness-challenged continent like North America, with its noble white crown, its proud glaciers and tiny blue-green lakes tucked on its slopes. The Gran Paradiso is the destination of many a mountaineer and trekker; the national park that takes its name is no less worthy of a thorough reconnoiter.



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