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The Serchio river curves due north after passing
the city of Lucca, winding its way through some of the
most stunning scenery in Tuscany. Upstream from the old spa
and casino town of Bagni di Lucca, the river valley narrows
as it becomes surrounded by steep cultivated hills.
Great mountains dominate the eye as one enters the heart of
the ancient, rustic realm known as the Garfagnana, whose
name derives from 'great forest'; indeed still today vast beech
and chestnut forests cover much of this very mountainous terrain.
Nestled between the Apennines to the east and the Apuane Alps
to the west, the rough topography of the Garfagnana has never
made it easy to live here, farmers having to actively mold the
land to make it suitable for farming. To make life even more
difficult, the Garfagnana has a long history as a border region:
for centuries it was subject to numerous bloody power struggles,
the Empire, the Papacy, Florence, Massa, Pisa, and Lucca, which
dominated the Middle Ages, all intriguing for the territory.
The Garfagnana was finally taken by Modena's Este dynasty
(which ruled the zone from the early 15th century to the Italian
unification of the mid-19th century, interrupted only by the
Napoleanic era). Notwithstanding its medieval turmoil the region's
historic capital, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, has managed
to retain its ancient core; numerous important villages and
churches also dot the hills and valleys. Recently the Garfagnana,
located in the extreme northwest corner of Tuscany along the
border with Emilia-Romagna, is witnessing a new prosperity thanks
to growing appreciation by both travelers and gourmands.
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The proximity of the Mediterranean Sea, just to the west
of the Apuane massif, provides the region with significant rainfall.
Along with the intense Tuscan sunlight the little arable land
available here actually winds up being quite productive. The Garfagnana
has thrived of late as its local homegrown products attain popularity
throughout Italy and beyond. From delectable sausage and
pecorino cheese to hearty wild boar and spelt
(farro in Italian, a light grain that has won particular
fame throughout Italy), Garfagnana has become synonymous with
high quality products.
The Corsorzio Garfagnana supplies specialty stores and
restaurants throughout Italy with their DOP products (the food
equivalent of DOC), and is looking to expand beyond national borders.
While the Chianti and Colline Senese regions have taken much of
the limelight over the past several years, the Garfagnana hopes
to win its rightful share of recognition while retaining its quiet,
understated appeal.
Its agriturismi, while perhaps not up to the five-star
level as their counterparts elsewhere in Tuscany, nevertheless
offer guests the authentic goodness of their homegrown and home-cooked
food and wine not to mention renowned Garfagnana hospitality.
While its magnificent rural beauty and fine cuisine are
attracting increasing numbers of tourists each year, the Garfagnana
has remained largely untainted by outside influence. One should
plan to arrive for the truly spectacular fall colors, from October
through November; the actual color peak may occur around early
November. The lush blooms of spring also make May-June fine months
to visit. There is no better way to explore the Garfagnana than
on foot or bike - numerous hiking trails and backcountry roads
line the region. Regional hiking and biking routes are introduced
below, along with a young Garfagnino entrepreneur's view on the
future farro may play in his homeland.
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