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High above the shimmering waters of Lake Garda lies a remarkable
protected mountain wilderness and rural community. The Comunità
Montana Alto Garda Bresciano owes its dramatic position to
the massive glacier that carved out the region some 15,000 years
ago. Peaks of over 2,000 m rise spectacularly from the lake surface,
protecting the great body of water from the brunt of winter storms
and lending it a mild, semi-Mediterranean climate. Palm trees
and olive groves are in evidence along the shore, as are lemon
trees, which were first cultivated here in the 15th century. Above
the coastal zone lies a steeply sloped forest, dominated by chestnut
and beech trees except where cleared to make way for a farm or
terraced village. Higher than 1,300 m the climate takes a turn
toward the alpine, with tundra-like crests covered with snow or
carpeted with flowers depending on the season. The rugged, limestone
mountains have been strikingly carved over the centuries, much
like the neighboring Dolomites, and there are many natural caves
and tunnels cut through the rock.
The Alto Garda Bresciano bears a few scars underneath its
seemingly ideal natural atmosphere. The lakeside town of Salò
was the center of Mussolini's last-stand republic, while the rough,
eerie terrain above Limone sul Garda was a theater of action during
the First World War. Those exploring the region will see reminders
of this troubled past, whether passing by a ruined fort, blast
holes on the side of the road, or a war cemetery. The Lake Garda
region witnessed uprisings and battles during the years leading
up to the unification of the Italian State (1861), after which
by treaty Austria held on to the Trentino and the South Tyrol
regions, much to the chagrin of many Italian patriots. Great popular
appeal to unite these lands with Italy plunged the new state into
the fray of WWI in 1915. Fierce fighting ensued over ridiculously
treacherous terrain from the mountains above Lake Garda to the
Dolomites and Carnian Alps; blows were exchanged over dangerous
mountain crests and even glaciers. In the end a generation was
destroyed fighting for a land that should have been enjoyed peacefully.
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The past continues to haunt, but thankfully the past fifty
odd years have been peaceful. Wind-surfers flock to take advantage
of the lake's renowned wind, as do sun seekers from northern Europe
looking to relax in one of the several charming lakeside towns.
Not nearly as many visitors venture into the mountain villages,
however, where rustic life continues much as it has over the centuries.
Visitors have boosted the economy of the Alto Garda Bresciano,
as biking, hiking and fishing have become popular activities,
though as in other remote regions the local youth must look elsewhere
for higher education and to the cities for employment outside
of agriculture or tourism.
For mountain bikers and hikers the Alto Garda Bresciano
is a marvelous playground, in the heart of high mountain terrain
yet rarely out of sight of vast Lake Garda. A magnificent itinerary
through the Tremosine Valley is described below.
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