Throughout history certain characters have had the fortune (or misfortune) to be anointed with memorable sobriquets. One of my favorites is 'Louis the Stutterer'; another is 'Robert the Magnificent', father of William the Conqueror. But I doubt Robert deserved that nickname as much as the island of Stromboli does. The archetypal imposing volcano, Stromboli boggles upon approach. Here is the model volcano 3rd graders wish they could turn in for their science projects: a near-perfect, steep-sided cone, the only thing missing is Campbell's Tomato Soup bubbling over the top. Actually, at night the red-hot "soup" does explode out of the craters, quite frequently and dramatically at times.

Much prettier than those cardboard model cutouts, Stromboli has a wide range of flora, from Mediterranean oleander, broom, capers, grape vines, olive and palm trees along the coast transform at higher elevations into smaller plants and shrubs, clinging to the mountain slope for dear life. The uppermost section of the cone has no vegetation, only volcanic sand and rock. The youngest of the Eolie islands is also Europe's most active volcano, erupting every twenty minutes or so. By no means, though, is there a regular timetable to the explosions. Cliffs tumble straight down into the sea around much of the island, not leaving much space for habitation. On the southern end of the island, the tiny village of Ginostra can barely fit a few houses. To the north there is more room, as the whitewashed houses of the main town (Stromboli Town) sprawl over a fairly large area.

Trekking here is extraordinary, if a little treacherous - hot ash from eruptions is not the only danger, as the slippery lava soil must also be taken into consideration, particularly if descending at night. Because of the danger involved with the eruptions, and because the best observation takes place at night, a guide is recommended for the ascent to the crater. The trail up from Stromboli Town is steep at times; most ascend in three hours but note that a good 900 m vertical elevation is gained, so one should be in at least average physical condition. From the port of Stromboli Town, walk through town and whitewashed suburbs, continuing along the coast to the northwest. After about thirty minutes pass the last of the homes and continue to circumnavigate the coast. At the observatory, begin to climb, at first at easy grade, becoming more and more steep. Be sure to note the frequent views off shore, to Strombolicchio (a small rock mass that dramatically thrusts out of the sea), Stromboli Town, and up the precipitous sides of the mountain. After an hour or more of fatiguing ascent, the soil will have turned noticeably softer (i.e. volcanic) and the shrubs and other plants all but disappeared. There is still some steep climbing ahead, made more difficult by the slick soil. Finally, after another half-hour, the ridge of the volcano is attained. All along this crest one may view the craters - at night the descent along this trail is quite spectacular, with the eruptions seen just across the bowl. Night excursions should be done only with a professional guide, as one mistaken turn could put you on the wrong side of a cliff. It is another half-hour to the Pizzo (918 m), the perfect place to gaze into the craters, only 200 m away. From here one has a bird's eye view of the eruptions - in summer many spend the night at the Pizzo, something of a right-of-passage for Italians. The smoky sunsets are sensational, as are the spectacular explosions, heard throughout the day but really only seen at night. Descending from the Pizzo, one could also take a steeper, shorter route finishing at Forgia Vecchia, a lovely black sand beach on the other side of Stromboli Town.

While most ascend to the craters from Stromboli Town, another alternative is from Ginostra, a longer but very scenic approach. Another trail worth trying is the technical-at-times route along the coast from Stromboli to Ginostra. Guides are necessary for sections of this route, unless you consider yourself a competent rock climber and have your own equipment. However, walkers should be able to complete several parts of the walk on their own, from Stromboli to Forgia Vecchia, and from Ginostra to the cliffs at Malu Passu.

Once back in town, relax at one of the fine restaurants, and above all else try the local wine, malvasia. A very smooth sweet wine, some venture that it is of higher quality than its acclaimed Tuscan counterpart, vinsanto.

Stromboli is not as easily reached as Vulcano, being one of the furthest of the Eolie. It takes about 2½ hours to arrive via aliscafo, and after all that one is not assured of landing, or departing, if the seas are rough. So be sure not to schedule airline departures or other important things around a certain departure time - during a severe storm one can be stranded some time, even days! However, since the most brutal storms arrive in winter, outside of tourist season, visitors do not usually have much to worry about (sunstroke, on the other hand, is something to be concerned about). The island is accessible in summer by boat from Palermo, Messina and as far away as Naples.

STROMBOLI GUIDES: 090-986315 (Stromboli Town), 090-9812423 (Ginostra)
STROMBOLI TOURIST OFFICE: 090-9880095 (Island of Lipari)
HOTELS: La Sirenetta Park Hotel (090-986025), Hotel Villagio Stromboli (090-986018) Both are very nice, opening out to the sea.
RENTING ROOMS: Note that one should call the tourist office ahead of time in the summer. However it may be possible to wing it, to come without a reservations: whenever a new boat docks, locals trying to sell their rooms swarm new arrivals. This bedlam occurs on the other Eolie as well, but on Stromboli it is the most pronounced - and humorous.
RESTAURANTS: Locanda dell barbablu (090-986118), Ai Gechi (090-986213). Both are superb, Ai gechi one of the most elegant on the island.