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If Ulysses hadn't so angered Aeolius, God of the Winds,
he might have been invited to stop off at the divine being's home,
the lovely Isole Eolie. The wind still has a kick here
as it did when Homer's protagonist was blown way off course -
roughs seas can strand residents for days, particularly on the
outer islands. But while "wind" is certainly a feature
of these Mediterranean islands, which are located off Sicily's
northeast coast, the Eolie are better known for their "fire".
The God of Fire was said to have lived on the volcanic island
that takes his name, Vulcano, whose steaming crater is visible
from neighboring islands. The island of Stromboli, meanwhile,
is the most active volcano in Europe, its red-hot eruptions making
for brilliant night viewing. While each of the Eolie presents
something unique, only these two offer the chance to observe a
real live volcano. Walking in Vulcano and Stromboli is
superb - the craters of both may be attained or nearly so on foot,
while there are other interesting trails to explore further off
the beaten path.
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Eolie History
The strategic position and rich mineral deposits of the Eolie
made its original population quite wealthy. For millennia the
islanders profited off the mining and trading of obsidian, a lustrous,
hard volcanic rock that was highly sought after for the production
of tools and weaponry. Under the Mycenaean Greeks and Romans,
islanders prospered and even became recognized for their beauty
- the hot springs of Vulcano were reputed for their therapeutic
powers. But from later Middle Ages until the founding of the Italian
kingdom the Eolie witnessed a long, slow decline under the negligent
Bourbons and other rulers, as the rest of southern Italy experienced.
The economic crises of the post WWI era, combined with those stemming
from WWII wrought disaster on the island, and violent eruptions
on Stromboli in 1930 and 1955 did not help things. During this
period (roughly 1930s - 1950s) many islanders were forced to emigrate.
In recent decades, however, tourism has slowly but surely turned
things around and affected a general prosperity in the Eolie.
Today most residents make their living from incoming visitors
- though the fishing fleets still go out daily, and there is now
a good deal of other business taking place on Lipari, the largest
of the archipelago. Tourism has changed the lives of most natives,
whether fishermen, hotel/restaurant owners, store owners, or residents
with rooms to rent. The islands are in full capacity in August
and other summer months; come in November or March to find tranquillity.
Life may appear hectic as islanders deal with the great influx
of visitors, the price of their economic success - but in reality
Eolie people are very friendly and like nothing better than to
take things easy and enjoy a deep conversation over a glass of
malvasia. Take time to get to know them.
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