The train ride becomes decidedly more interesting twenty minutes outside Verona. After crossing the encompassing Padana plain, enter a long tunnel, and emerge enveloped by mountains. Immediately to the left after the tunnel, perched on the top of a mountain, is the Forte di Rivoli, an Italian military fortress used during the First World War. The glacier blue Adige river, meanwhile, glistens innocently below. Following the Adige River valley north toward Trento there are terraced vineyards, apple orchards and the occasional town viewed as a cluster of specks on the horizon (the tallest spire marking the church). Still further north from Trento (a fascinating university city), as the brooding massifs rise ever more majestically over the valley, enter what was formerly Austria's Sudtirol (South Tyrol) region. Won by the Italians at the conclusion of the first world conflict but never relinquishing its unique cultural heritage, the Sudtirol today enjoys a certain degree of an autonomy within the Italian state, as does the Trentino, its southern neighbor, which are joined together to form one single region. Beyond the fine regional capital of Bolzano is the too-cute-to-be-true Bressanone, with its "gingerbread" houses and streets and archways painted with marvelous frescoes.

Hardened alpinists and young families alike flock to this region, particularly in summer and winter, to explore one of the world's most spectacular mountain ranges. The mighty Dolomiti, which dominate this northeast corner of Italy, extend from the Veneto province in the south to the Austrian border in the north. Historically the Dolomiti divided Austrian and Venetian spheres of influence, thus the south (Trentino) is more Italian in language and culture, the north (Sudtirol) more Austrian. But the Sudtirol natives have maintained their own special heritage, which in some areas includes another language quite apart from Italian or German: Ladino, a Latin-based language that owes its origins to the Roman conquest of the region. Still spoken in some areas, Ladino appears as a third language on many signs in the region and is now taught in local schools.

Note that one need not be a serious hiker or skier to appreciate the Dolomiti (though those who are have unlimited opportunities). Even a short day hike or ski run will bring you a closer appreciation of the dazzling natural beauty of the Dolomites. There are often rifugi or baita within easy
distance, which invariably serve wonderful meals. Sudtirol cuisine is superb: It includes great meats such as smoked Speck and many types of game, abundant Porcini mushrooms, special fennel-seed crunchy flat bread, excellent beer and wine, and above all fabulous strudel. A walk or ski run is always worth the effort, since in the end it serves to heighten the appetite.

The train ride from Verona to Bressanone is a good introduction to the Dolomiti. With the fine public transport system in place cars are not really necessary except if heading for secluded mountain valleys and villages. By train and bus one may access many major hiking routes and ski stations from other cities in Italy and Europe.

An easy day's walk along the high plain of the Alpe di Siusi, with lunch at a baita is outlined below, as is a multi-day hiking itinerary along the high routes of the Dolomiti, which entails staying in mountain rifugi enroute.
Lastly skiing opportunities in the region are also described.