San Quirico d'Orcia grew up above the Orcia River and along the Via Francigena, a medieval trade and pilgrimage route from northern Europe to Rome, which passed directly through the main street of town. Three churches were built along this thoroughfare, which is a lot for a town this size; the most important of these, the Romanesque Collegiata, has three portals well-sculpted with lions and other fantastic beasts (similar to those on the Abbey of Sant'Antimo). Further along the main street there are the remains of an ospedale, not a true hospital in today's sense of the word, but rather more of a traveler's lodge. Tourism circa 1300 A.D. must have been something to see, but today the town retains a kind of noble tranquillity, practically free of tourists in comparison with other towns in the region. When I'm here I often meet residents eager to share something about their town or lives. In tourist-heavy places local people may become weary of travelers, but in San Quirico I sometimes feel like I'm one of the original pilgrims or traders to enter the town.

After exploring San Quirico, cross through the arch in the main piazza and climb to the top of the beautiful botanical gardens, where there are often interesting exhibits. Exit the gardens to the right. Continue straight across the street through modern construction, and turn right when the street ends. This road is sign marked for Bagno Vignoni - follow it outside of the suburbs, where it becomes a dirt road, and climb steadily to the top of a hill some 45 minutes from San Quirico. Please note that all times given are average speeds for walkers; mountain bikers should expect about half the listed time. Take a left at the summit of the hill, where a tree provides the first shade of the day (bring water!), and continue to ascend, less steeply, to the tiny hamlet of Castel Vignoni. Here there are excellent views of the Orcia Valley, to the Rocco d'Orcia, an imposing medieval fortress on a rock that commanded entry to the valley. Skirt the trails below Castel Vignoni to a dirt road, which descends gradually through vineyards to the town of Bagno Vignoni, 1 hour and 45 minutes from San Quirico. Though not directly on the Via Francigena, Bagno Vignoni became an important attraction during the Middle Ages, because its mineral-rich hot baths were thought (and are still thought) to have wonderful healing powers. Fatigued or injured travelers would rest here for some time; by the 15th century Bagno Vignoni had grown into something of a resort, as even the Pope had a residence here. Other famous visitors included Florence's Lorenzo the Magnificent and St. Catherine of Siena, whose mother brought her here to try to convince her not to take religious orders. Apparently the sight of scantily-clad bathers did not sway Catherine from her higher goals.

One can still view the large ancient bath, a fascinating site, with Pope Pius II's residence to one side. And one can also bathe in the modern bathing facilities on the other side of town, a very restorative experience. The bath's temperature ranges from very warm bath water near the spring at one end of the pool to tepid, more refreshing water at the other end. Don't shower afterward, the healthy minerals should soak in the skin. There is also a natural hot stream running through town, good for soaking sore feet. An excellent choice for lunch is the Osteria del Leone near the ancient bath, which serves fine local dishes such as pici, a fresh, egg-less pasta that goes great with sauces made of lepre (hare) or cinghiale (wild boar).

After a good meal and bath, one should feel ready to tackle the second, more difficult half of the day. From Bagno Vignoni exit along the paved road, turn left on the principle road toward Pienza (away from the Rocco d'Orcia). Take the first right onto another paved road, one not frequently traveled, until there is an intersection with a dirt road on the left (there is a tree in an island at the entrance to this road). One may drive to this point, 30 minutes by foot from Bagno Vignoni, to eliminate walking/biking along the road; however only about 10-15 minutes are spent on the busy principle road. From beginning of the dirt road the top of the church of Pienza is visible in the distance; it seems to be many leagues away and an alarming distance up. The first 45 minutes are not so bad, though, the road continuing mostly flat through the bare plains. As the massif of the hill town approaches, however, there is no where to go but up: Follow the signs for the 'Terrapille' and climb steadily and steeply at times for the next hour. Finally, the small church of Pieve di Corsignano is attained, which overlooks the valley just ascended. Admire the carvings on the side of this ancient structure, which dates possibly from the 10th century. Enter inside and test out the acoustics, which are perfect for singing. This was Pienza's original parish church; actually Pienza was called Corsignano before Pope Pius II, local boy done good, changed the name of his hometown to his honor.

From Pieve di Corsignano, it is another 20 minutes up, gradually, to the town of Pienza. Take a left on a road just before the main street, and ascend to the city walls. Total hiking time from Bagno Vignoni: approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes (approximately an hour for a biker). Upon entering the town it may appear much like any other medieval village, with winding narrow streets and clustered houses. But the central piazza is clearly different, a purely Renaissance creation, as Pius II ordered the construction of a new center and church soon after he became pope in 1459. His architect Bernardo Rossellino did a masterful job of putting everything together in only three years time, though the church, built on unstable ground, has visible cracking and is starting to lean over the hill. Inside are several excellent altarpieces by diverse Sienese masters; by papal ball everything within the church remains as it was in Pius' time. Pius II died after only eight years as pontiff, so was unable to refurbish the entire town in new style. Hence immediately outside the main square the houses and streets take on a more medieval character. In Pienza the Latte di Luna restaurant is a wonderful place to dine; try the maialino (little pig). The Agriturismo Santo Pietro, a ten-minute drive outside of town, is a very homey place to stay: Chef Giulia and her husband Felice are indomitable hosts (0578-748410).