Tuscany's Crete region has some
of the most beautiful landscapes in Italy. Imposing hill-towns
stand guard over grand, open valleys that change color with
the season. Vineyards, olive groves and sunflowers line some
areas, while many others are dominated by pale clay hills, dotted
with sheep and the occasional crumbling farmhouse. Crete
actually means 'clays'; the region takes its name from its clay
hills.
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The Crete developed and grew prosperous along trade
and pilgrimage routes during the early Middle Ages. Caught up in
the wars between Siena and Florence, the latter's eventual
victory and conquest of the region in the 16th century initiated
a long period of decline and stagnation. Only from the 1960s onward
did the economy show signs of growth, with the rise of tourism and
the worldwide discovery of local wines, cheese, oil and other products.
I remember asking an elderly couple in the small town of Castelnuovo
dell'Abate how things have changed in the past fifty years. The
old woman smiled and said one word, "Brunello": the name
of nearby Montalcino's famous, superb wine. Fortunately the
Crete has kept its charm despite the influx of recent visitors. |
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Interesting discoveries and adventures await those willing to
explore the region on foot or mountain bike. I've described two
such itineraries below: The first is an excursion from heights
of Montalcino to the Romanesque Abbey of Sant'Antimo,
while the second follows the pilgrimage route through San Quirico
to the baths of Bagno Vignoni, continuing to the Renaissance
hill town of Pienza.
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