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From the center of Menaggio, Piazza
Garibaldi, walk up Via Calvi to Via Lusardi. Cross diagonally
left to Via Caronti, continue to the left of the Santa Stefano
church, then take a right on Via Como. After 30 meters take a
right on Via Castelina, passing the outer walls of a castle destroyed
in the 15th century. After the castle ascend steadily, taking
a right on Via N Sauro. There are many fine old houses along this
road, with beautiful gardens, and there are grand views of Menaggio
and the lake below as you ascend. Walk over the Torrente Senagra
(Senagra brook), to a path beside the Hotel Loveno. Continue along
Via Sauro for another 30 meters until you reach a sign reading
"Passegiata Pianure" (Meadow Walk). Walk toward the start of the
meadow walk, past Piazza Wachs Mylius, then right to Via XXIV
Maggio where there is a sign posted "Pianure". Follow this road
past the large church of San Lorenzo to the start of the fitness
trail, "Percorso della Salute", also the start of the meadow walk.
So far you will have walked about 45 minutes from Menaggio; you
will be high above the lake at this point and on a nice day there
should be sweeping views.
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At the start of the fitness trail you leave
the road and begin hiking on a scenic, forested trail, past occasional
green meadows. You will reach the banks of the Torrente Senagra;
continue along the riverbank until you reach a trout farm with
a cluster of old stone houses. Here there is a bridge across the
brook: continue along the right bank of the brook for another
30 meters past the trout farm, until there is a narrow, red-and-white
marked trail ascending to the right. Continue along this trail,
which climbs steadily through thick forest. This trail is a section
of the Via dei Monti Lariani, a long route that traverses the
western shore of Lake Como. After about 45 minutes, there is a
clearing and farm leading up to the village of Barna, one
of the most bucolic settings anywhere in Italy. The village itself
is fun to explore, with its old houses, baroque church and cobbled
streets; a visitor outside of July or August may find himself
alone, aside from a couple elderly folk and a few chickens.
From Barna, continue to ascend steadily through
forest, past the scattered houses that make up the village of
Piazza, until the trail levels and forest clears with the
first farms and houses of Breglia. Climbing efforts are
rewarded here with stunning views of the lake below. About an
hour from Barna, there are several excellent places to relax or
picnic in this area, including a cluster of old farm buildings
set in a scenic. Breglia marks the half-way point of the hike
but for those who have enough for one day may finish here. There
are regular buses from Breglia to Menaggio. Reenter the woods
above Breglia then arrive at the road where people park to begin
the hike to Rifugio Menaggio. The trail leaves the road at a group
of picnic tables with a grand vista of the lake; soon there is
a trail intersection, just below a section of burnt forest. One
has a choice here of taking either the "Basso" (low) or "Alta"
(high) route to the rifugio - either way will work, though the
high route is a bit more scenic. Hike through the burnt forest
and ascend above timberline. There will be a trail intersection
for Monte Bregagno - continue to the left toward the rifugio.
After an hour from Breglia, arrive at Rifugio Menaggio,
nicely set on a grassy meadow in the shadow of Monte Grona. A
siesta and sunbathing session on the meadow is highly recommended
here. It is another 45 minutes to the summit of Monte Grona
-- but only attempt the hike if time and weather are permitting:
above the rifugio is highly exposed, alpine country. There are
two options to the summit from the rifugio: the Via Diretissima
(the "extremely direct" route) or the Via Normale. Both are steep,
but the Via Normale less so and is therefore advised as the best
route to follow. The trail ascends to the right of the summit
crags, which are frequented by rock climbers. The final push to
the summit is well-worth the effort on a nice day - one will see
clear to Lake Lugano to the west, nearly all of Lake Como, Milan
and Po plains to the south, the Valtellina and higher Alps to
the north and east. The summit elevation is 1736 meters; approximately
1500 meters vertical above the lake at Menaggio.
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Depending on one's strength at this point,
the time of day and the weather, an optional climb to the summit
of Monte Bregagno (2107 meters - some 1900 meters above Menaggio)
will take another 2.5-3 hours round-trip from Rifugio Menaggio
or Monte Grona. It is a spectacular climb up Monte Bregagno's
grassy ridge, with even more expansive views than those from Monte
Grona. From Monte Grona descend the Via Normale to La Forcoletta
(a trail intersection) then ascend to the left toward Monte Bregagno.
Not far from the intersection is the 16th century chapel, Sant'Amate.
From here the trail ascends steadily along the ridge until the
crucifix-topped summit is attained. Note that, as with Monte Grona,
Monte Bregagno is entirely above timberline, and its ridge is
very exposed. Do not begin the summit hike if there look to be
afternoon storms, or if it is very late in the day.
Descending from Monte Bregagno or Monte Grona,
one may wish to spend the night at Rifugio Menaggio (see "Trail
Notes" below for more details). Spending the night at the rifugio
would allow one to climb Monte Bregnano with more leisure in the
morning. Descend from the rifugio to the center of Breglia, from
where there are regular buses to Menaggio (check the bus stop
posts for timetable). From the summit of Monte Grona to Breglia
center (the piazza by the cemetery and war memorial) allow one
hour hiking time.
Overall hiking time beginning in Menaggio and
ending in Breglia:
Menaggio - Trout Farm: 1 hour
Trout Farm - Barna: 45 minutes
Barna -- Breglia: 1 hour
SubTotal: 2 hours, 45 minutes
Breglia - Rifugio Menaggio: 1 hour
Rifugio Menaggio - Monte Grona: 45 minutes
Monte Grona - Breglia: 1 hour
Total: 5 hours, 30 minutes
Note that this is hiking time only - it does
not include long rest stops - and is figured for a walker with
a moderate hiking pace.
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