This walk could be completed as a one or two day loop,
though to fully enjoy Rifugio Garelli one should allow for two
days. To get there: Drive south from Cuneo, the provincial capital
of this corner of Piemonte, to the Certosa di Pesio, the monastery
to which the park was originally granted in the 12th century.
This is the entrance to the Parco Naturale Alta Valle Pesio
e Tanaro, but continue for the Rifugio del Parco further up
the road (a rifugio is a mountain lodge or hut). During the
summer one can take a train to Cuneo then a bus to the Rifugio
del Parco. The park is also accessible by train from Limone
Piemonte or Tende (just over the border in France - see "Other
Routes" section for more details).
 From
the Rifugio del Parco in the Parco Naturale Alta Valle
Pesio e Tanaro, begin walking along the road into the park. Pass
a cascade and continue through the forest; after about 30 min
reach the end of the road. Here is the start of the trail, marked
with a trail sign pointing left to Rifugio Garelli. Ascend steadily
through beautiful mixed forest for another half-hour, until there
is a trail intersection at an old grazer's dwelling. Take the
trail to the left toward Rifugio Garelli, and climb steeply at
times through forest with occasional views of giant mountains
ahead. In fall, the trees here are ablaze with color, particularly
gold; even the larches turn color and eventually lose their needles
(the European Larch is the only Italian conifer that does so).
After two more herding settlements, the trail will rise above
treeline, and soon you will be in sight of Rifugio Garelli.
Reach the rifugio after about 1.5 hours from the grazer's dwelling
intersection. The rifugio commands a great view of the Pesio Valley
and of the limestone cliffs of the imposing Marguareis massif.
Of recent construction, the rifugio's glass skylights allow for
excellent stargazing. It is a wonderful place to spend the night,
enjoy a meal or an aperitivo. Those ending here for the day should
take in the sun on the deck, sip a genepy, a local (strong) herb
liquor, and engage in a conversation with fellow walkers.
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Those completing this walk in one day should not linger,
however, as a good three hours of hiking lie ahead. Continuing
from the rifugio, descend twenty minutes to the Laghetto del
Marguareis (a pond), from where there are hiking and climbing
routes up the Marghareis massif. Ascend steadily from the
laghetto to a col directly across the valley from Rifugio Garelli.
Continue climbing, not as steep, to the Passo del Duca,
which is perched above cliffs plummeting several hundred meters
to the valley (an hour from the laghetto). After the pass the
terrain becomes somewhat surreal, as the trail traverses a plateau
riddled with caves and dotted with strange rock outcroppings.
The Conca delle Carsene, as the plateau is called, has
been explored by speleologists, who have plummed its caves to
depths of over 600 meters. Do not stray from the trail: some of
the caves are unmarked holes in the ground and could be dangerous
if stumbled upon. At the ruins of an old herding building, take
a right at the H11 trail. This descends from the plateau,
returning to the Pesio Valley via a scenic, steep-sided gulley.
One hour from the Passo del Duca, return to the grazer's settlement
intersection, and descend the final section of trail and road
to the park entrance (approximately forty minutes).
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