Rome: the Jewish Quarter
by Roberta Ceudek

Rome is an open air museum, each day there is an opportunity to relive a little piece of History. A walk in the Jewish Quarter, where you also find the "kosher" soul of gastronomy, is an original and bizarre experience.



In Rome, time doesn't exist. Each day the city lives as if suspended between past and future: cars climb up the Salita del Grillo just like a century ago horse driven buggies did. To reach their work places, the Romans today cross via dei Fori Imperiali or Piazza del Colosseo like their illustrious forefathers.

Rome is an open air museum, each day there is an opportunity to relive a little piece of History.
For this reason walking around the piazza Campo de' Fiori market, among seasonal vegetables and the yellowing, turn of the century postcard views, one cannot help but wonder how many witches might have been burned, right here, during the witch hunts of the Inquisition. And in those times it took very little indeed to be charged with "witchcraft"!

Near the Piazza, the Hotel Teatro di Pompeo (Largo del Pallaro, 8, tel.: 06-6872812, fax 06-68805531) the still existing structure of an Imperial period theater, offering a discrete, warm and comfortable refuge.

Crossing Via Arenula, we enter the Ghetto, the capital's Jewish quarter: inside the old breadmaker's shops and bazaars, we find the "kosher" soul of gastronomy, that is, those dishes prepared following the rules of Jewish religion. In order to make provisions of "original" foods, we can enter the Billo Bottarga (via Sant'Ambrogio, 7) and choose, according to the tradition, azyme bread and mullet botargo. The origins of the "roman-jewish" traditions can be traced back to "Il Pompiere" (Via Santa Maria dei Calderari, 38 - tel. 06-6868377, closed on Sundays), where one can taste the classical dish "abbacchio" with a side order of "puntarelle in salsa d'alici".

The Ghetto reveals a rather unusual Rome; a quarter where the typical Roman and Jewish community cultures merge together. The Synagogue, a magnificent symbol of the power of new generations of tradesmen and businessmen, is only a few steps away from the Portico d'Ottavia, which reminds one of the horror of Nazi deportations. Once again, past and present inhabit the same space.


Climbing the Cordonata steps


A timeless atmosphere is to be found at the Enoteca di Anacleto Bleve (via Santa Maria del Pianto, 9 Tel. 06-6865970, open for lunch only) where one can taste the excellent carpaccio with balsamic vinegar or a most delicious cheese selection paired with the very best Italian wines. If one is on the look out for a vegetarian menu, la Zucca Magica Restaurant (via dei Barbieri, 23 - tel. 06-6833207, closed Sundays and Mondays)is an intimate and suggestive place, where candles light - even during lunch! - a zucca parmigiana as well as the typical pastries and cakes. It is advisable, though, not to eat too much before climbing the famous - and laborious! - "Cordonata" steps, leading up to Piazza del Campidoglio.

S. Maria in Ara Coeli, next to the Campidoglio, is certainly worth a visit: this is one of the Roman peoples' most beloved churches. Until recently, it treasured the statue of Infant Jesus, "il Bambinello", venerated by popular tradition, before being smuggled away by thieves.
Crossing over the Piazza del Campidoglio designed by Michelangelo, we shouldn't forget the Musei Capitolini (tel. 06-67102071, Opening hours: Tues. - Thurs. 9:00 am to 2:00 pm; Fri. - Sat. 9:00 am - 2:00 pm/ 5:00 pm - 11:00 pm; holidays 9:00 am - 1:00 pm; closed Mondays). The museums were founded way back in 1471. The Museums treasure an important collection of classical art works, among which the famous "Galata Morente" as well as the first "adoptive mother" of all Romans, the "Lupa Capitolina" (the female wolf symbol of the city).

The Museum's Pinacoteca offers some interesting perspectives by Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Tiziano, Rubens and Van Dyck.
The scenario is most unusual: looking out towards the opposite side of the Piazza, one can admire the Foro Romano, which was the impressive centre for the Roman Republicans and the Caesars social and economical life.