A gourmet tour of Piemonte's ricelands
with rice, wines and woolens

by Vincenzo Maritati


Just 30 minutes from Milano's Malpensa airport, is the gateway to a marvelous journey. Within a 100 km radius, its possible to experience an incredible variety of natural surroundings, artisanry and high-quality wine production.

The rice fields around Vercelli give way to the Terre del Nebbiolo of northern Piedmont, followed by a first-hand look at the slopes of the Monte Rosa as is rises over the Pianura Padana plains.
Skiing Monte RosaIn and around Vercelli, rice is a staple crop and the local symbol of purity and happiness. Not surprising, as it has been cultivated in the area since as long ago as 1493! Some 8 km outside Vercelli, in Lignana, it's well worth your time to visit rice producers at the Riseria Veneria (tel.0161314233, e-mail saiagri@tin.it). This is one of the largest rice growers around, and one known for its scrupulous attention to detail in every step of the operation, including the use of evironmentally friendly substances and materials.
The Riseria Veneria became famous in July of 1948 when the noted Italian director Giuseppe De Santis used it as the backdrop for his film Riso Amaro, one of the classics of Italian cinema. The professional actors were supported by nearly 800 extras, taken from the army of itinerate farmworkers employed in hte local fields.
To sample a bit of the local cuisine while visiting Vercelli, try la "paniscia" (rice cooked in vegetable broth with beans and sausage) served up at the cozy little hotel/restaurant Giardinetto in Via Sereno 3 (tel.0161257230).

Riso Amaro: the movieLeaving Vercelli by car, a half-hour's drive will take you to the heart of the hills where a fine red wine is produced, north Piedmont's Terre del Nebbiolo where the first vinyards were cultivated in the first centruy AD. One Mercurino Arborio, Chancellor of the Emperor Charles 5th, is purported to have introduced this wine to some of the finest tables in Europe as a "supporting" argument to his various diplomatic causes.
Thanks to a clever promotional campaign and growing international appreciation for fine wines, this region is experiencing a boom that often leaves producers unable to keep up with the increasing demand. The May 16th edition of the New York Post featured an article by the noted food writer Suzane Ausnit dedicated to the wines and points of interest of northern Piedmont's Terre del Nebiolo.
The red Nebbiolo wine is a prince among grands vins, but the region's Vespolina, Bonarda and Croatina are increasingly acclaimed, along with an optimal white produced from the Erbaluce grape.



Notes from the cellar
Piemonte Region


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