Palermo, The City That Never Slept
by David Leibowitz

Perhaps there is something in the air, warmed by the ever-present Mediterranean sun and scented by the sea. Maybe it is the summer haze, hazily outlining the mountains that surround the port, or the crumbling lanes, poorly lit after sunset, that during the day host a market without end. No doubt the buoyant citizenry, sumptuous cuisine, and "working to live" lifestyles also play a role in making the city of Palermo the special place it is. The ancient capital of Sicily exudes an energy and life that exceeds cities twice its size. Despite centuries of decline, Palermo carries on its independent, multicultural tradition. Great religious and secular monuments from the past 1,000 years can be found throughout the city, encompassing the style of many diverse nations that have ruled the city over the period. Shopping downtown is quite posh, there are wonderful restaurants, bars and nightclubs and the music scene in particular is excellent. But, as the artful explorer will uncover, never far away from the gleaming sections of the city are neighborhoods falling into ruin, apartments in conditions not nearly as good as nearby restored edifices from the twelfth century. Understandably, citizens are not happy about this; visitors should remember that that as picturesque as decaying structures may be, they are in fact sad marks of a region still struggling economically. One could learn all this and more from a local resident: try to meet and befriend Palermitani, the greatest jewels in this city of contrasts.