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The long, winding Valle Strona has been inhabited
at least since Roman times, as may be attested by the Roman bridge over
the Strona River near the town of Valstrona. The valley was a trading
route of the Walsers, a Germanic tribe that also settled this valley and
several others throughout Northern Italy Switzerland and Austria. Woodworking
and metalworking are important crafts in the valley, as is raising livestock,
farming and sheep/goat herding at higher elevations. At the top of the
valley there are a myriad of walking opportunities leading to higher peaks.
The fall is a special time to be here, as the forest turns a beautiful
array of colors. This walk begins in Luzzogno, just up the valley from
Valstrona, which has a beautiful church of medieval
origin. Head up the road and turn left at the water fountain. Continue
left on via Inuggio, up. Continue on road to Nuggio and swing around to
church. At via Principale, take a left, then right on via Massiola, down
steps (steep at times) to the bridge. Climb from here to the church and
town of Massiola, perched high above the Strona Valley and seemingly lost
to the modern world. In fact, not only will most residents appear over
the age of seventy or eighty, they will likely be wearing traditional
dress, women carrying wooden "backpacks" filled with goods. Appreciate
the scene, say hello to the very sympathetic people (who do not get many
visitors their way), but do not be too disruptive - these are the last
witnesses of an era long ago concluded.
Continue through town, leaving it on a downhill slightly paved road that
eventually turns to trail. At the fork, stay up to right. Continue on
the trail to the road, then take a right on the road up to the rustic
village of Forno. Walk through the historic center, whose piazza has some
interesting WWII-era frescoes, then descend to Guerino's woodworking shop
(just ask the town folk where it is). Enjoy Guerino's spirited tour of
his shop and learn about woodworking history in the valley. From here,
the grassy trail continues directly across the street. Some 10min up,
past old houses, is the Agriturismo Il Rododendro, a fine place to enjoy
polenta and other hearty local specialties (be careful trying to find
the place from the trail - it is easier to follow the road from town).
After lunch, you can continue up the trail the runs past the agriturismo
on a somewhat difficult 40min stretch to Piano di Forno. Regard the chapel
under repair; there is a touching fresco of a mother who prays for her
sons to return from American before her death (and they do). From Piano
di Forno, it is an easy 40min along the road to Campello Monti. This attractive
village is the hometown of the Bulgari family (a.k.a. BVLGARI) and has
been beautifully restored (as opposed to Piano di Forno just below). Look
for the Bulgari tower and the magnificent church.
Total hiking time is approximately 4-5 hours. Two cars are recommended
for this walk for easier transport; or one could take advantage of a taxi
service (for more details inquire at the tourist office in Orta). There
are also public buses that make it as far as Forno.
Campello Monti is at the head of the valley, right at treeline, and is
the start of many fine alpine treks. For example, one could hike to lovely
Lago di Capezzone and the Rifugio Traglio, then continue to Cime Capezzone,
at 2421m one of the highest mountains in the area. The views from here
are spectacular, ranging to the great Monte Rosa, the second highest mountain
in Europe - and not all that far away.
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