From Pella to the Roncos

Directly across the lake from Orta San Giulio and the Isle lies the village of Pella, accessible by road from either end of Lake Orta or, better yet, by direct ferry from the town of Orta. Pella is renowned for its production of rubinetti, or faucets. The Santuario della Madonna del Sasso sits proudly on the cliffs above town, best seen from the Orta San Giulio side of the lake.

The walk begins in Pella center. Take note of the Circolo delle Lavoratori in town (which has toilets), an excellent place to have lunch on your return (the proprietors are from Salerno, so food here is Southern Italian). Leaving Pella, head north on the lakeside road to Ronco Inferiore, a tiny village marking the end of the road - in fact all there is no lakeside drive along the northwest side of the lake. The crumbling village and church date from the 13th century. The town is known for basket weaving - it once held greater importance as the end of a trade route: goods were shipped out from here to points throughout Italy.

Take a left at end of town, uphill on trail. Continue steadily up an unpaved road, then paved, steeply at times, past 15th century chapel and summer youth camp. You'll pass a few homes in various stages of disrepair or reconstruction. Due to the severity of the land laws, it is difficult to get permit to build new homes, therefore most people must rebuild old structures. If you do build, you may not block an existing trail or ancient walkway, which is good news for hikers - although unfortunately in some areas this law being interpreted to the sense that if the trail is not recognized on Commune maps then it can be closed! The settlements here date from 13th century, the houses themselves from at least the 18th century.

Reach tiny village of Ronco Superiore, where there are figs and strawberries (and little strawberries, fragolini) in the fall. Pass S. Maddelena church and take a left on the grassy trail. Before trail enters woods there is a fine view of the lake at left above the vineyard.

Continue through woods back to road (left), then left on trail 50m later. The trail ends at Grassona (named for a fat woman who used to live there); take the first right onto road through outskirts. Several houses here were recently rebuilt, including a beautiful garden. Take a left past school, now defunct. Circle through town, end up at church and go straight on Via Egro.

Descend then ascend through beech forest. At the road, continue straight on Via Egro, 1 hour to end. Continue to the village of Egro, then descend to left past the church on Via Belvedere. Descend on this trail, steeply at times, then take a right at the road intersection. Take another right down stairs at fountain, left at green fence, and down this stair-trail. Take right onto road, left onto trail over bridge to Pella.

Total hiking time is approximately 3.5 hours.

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