Cefalù, Palermo, and Monreale



Sicily's central position in the Mediterranean Sea has always made it an attractive prize for a potential conqueror; throughout history it has constantly changed hands. The Rogers thus had to refortify the island against the possible return of the Arabs or any other power. Above the important port of Cefalù, Roger I constructed a strong fortress; but the ancient town would not remain only an important military post. Legend has it that Roger II, while shipwrecked off the coast of Cefalù, promised to build a cathedral there should he land with safety. The king survived the ordeal and fulfilled his vows, completing in 1131 the Duomo of Cefalù. The combination of Norman, Greek and Arab influences can be seen in this grand structure. The cathedral towers above the town in Norman fashion, while on the inside the dominating Christ Pantocrator (Almighty) is completed in Byzantine-Greek style mosaics. Arab-style pointed arches are also noted inside.

Palermo had been the capital of the Arab emirate before the Norman's arrival, and was already one of the morelovely cities of Europe by the start of the 12th century. During this century the Normans added several new buildings to the city, including the Duomo and Royal Palace. The Duomo is impressive structure, its mosaics and geometric design representing the fusion of Greek and Arab styles. The Royal, or Norman Palace was originally expanded upon an earlier Arab structure, but Roger II commissioned several additional chambers, including the magnificent Palatine Chapel, where the synthesis of Greek and Arab work is clearly seen in the Byzantine mosaics and the fanciful Islamic painting of the wooden ceiling. Secular mosaics cover Roger's Hall, a true rarity. The mosaics, which depict a hunting scene, are thought to symbolize the conception of absolute power conceived by the Normans and their immediate successors. The Royal Palace is the current seat of the Sicilian parliament, and tour guides will be quick to point out that it was the first of its kind, active even before its British counterpart.

William II, Roger II's grandson, built perhaps the finest Gothic structure in Italy with his Abbey of Monreale in the later 12th century. By this point the Arabs and Greeks had been working together for some time in Sicily, but one can still tell the Arab-style corner columns at the sides of the apses and the pointed line of arcades, windows and blind arches, the mosaics of clearly Byzantine inspiration. The mosaics are wonderful, but perhaps the most amazing part about Monreale is its cloister. There are over 200 polychrome columns with splendid Romanesque capitals; sunlight hitting these columns produces a beautiful effect. One can climb to the roof of the Abbey for a panorama of Palermo and the sea and views of the cloister below.




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