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by Roberta Ceudek
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 Perhaps the city's strongest impressions are olfactory. The smell of the sea at the Mergellina boat harbor comes across the gulf on the breezes. The salty tang can be best appreciated at Marechiaro, which travels along the riviera from Chiaia to Posillipo. Marechiaro was originally a fishing village whose surviving piazzas date back at least to the 1700's, while some are even remains of ancient Roman times. On the riviera, La Cantina Triunfo (Riviera di Chiaia, 34, tel. 081-668101, closed on Sunday, opened only for dinner) draws guests with the irresistable perfume of its "vermicelli alle vongole fujute" (spaghetti with clam sauce) and the bouquet of local wines. The smells of the sea give way to those of the city underground the pungent odors of damp and a thousand years of history accompany an excursion into the city's deeper recesses, from the Catacombe di S.Gennaro with their paleochristian artwork to the galleries beneath the Duomo, rich in greco-roman remains-. |
 | Subterranean Naples (Info: Associazione Napoli Sotterranea, tel. 081-298562). During WWII, bomb shelters were housed under the city streets and monuments. Countless graffiti serve as reminders of this period. |
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