THE LANGHE REGION

An Itinerary in Southern Piemonte

It is perhaps no coincidence that Cesare Pavese, first in the world to translate the poetry of Walt Whitman,
was born in a region so rich in history; steeped in the flavor of fine wines, porcini and truffles



Piemonte

Torino (Turin) is the principal city of this of northern Italian region , which borders the southern edge of France. Piemonte has absorbed various linguistic and gastronomic influences from French culture and the royal House of Savoy. The last descendant of this Italian dynasty was Vittorio Emanuele II. He was a key figure of Italian unification which, after a long and difficult period, was finally instituted in 1861.

Langhe is a singularly hilly inland region of Piemonte particularly attractive to tourists in the fall.
The quaint town of Alba, for example, is the center of a magic circle encompassing the best of the region's bounty.


langhe map General information:
Dial toll-free
  • 167-32 93 29

In Alba, inquire at the Azienda di Promozione Turistica (Bureau for the Promotion of Tourism) at

  • tel: 0173-35 833
  • fax: 0173-36 38 78


How to get there:

You'd best rent a car, as many of the area's castles are beyond the reach of the railway system. If you arrive from Milano, head southwest some 149 km on the autostrada (A7 direction Genova then A21 direction Alessandria , exiting at the Asti turn-off). Alba lies a short drive farther to the south.


Step by step

Interest in the Langhe region is focused on the area which has come to be called the "Via del Barolo", which feeds into a small area just outside Alba and is the proud region of origin for such prestigious wines as Barbaresco, Barbera, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto d'Alba, Dolcetto di Dogliani, Grignolino, Moscato d'Asti and Roero (see wine directory).

It goes without saying that there is a high concentration of restaurants in the area as well as many fine small hotels from which visitors can admire the medieval towers erected by the cities' most powerful families.

tips If possible, plan to visit Alba between the 12-27 of October. The annual
National Truffle Festival
with its exhibitions and displays (not to mention the culinary treats available) is always a worthwhile and pleasurable excursion.

The town of Cherasco, remarked by Napoleon to be "the most beautiful strip of land in Italy" lies to the west of Alba. The town was also a favorite of director Luchino Visconti.


EDITOR'S CHOICE Don't miss this one! Overnight guests in Asti should be sure to schedule a trip to sample the best porcini mushroom soup ever at the restaurant Guido, in nearby (15 km) Costigliole, Piazza Umberto I, no. 27 tel:0141-96 60 12.
Other specialties include agnoletti al sugo di stinco (meat-stuffed ravioli in a pork sauce)

Guido has just been included among the six Grand Award-winning restaurants world-wide selected by the experts of "Wine Spectator", August 31, 1996.


To the west of Alba, lies the Pollenzo town, which derives its name from the old Roman name "Pollentia". The castle served as Vittorio Emanuele II's hunting retreat.

In the opposite direction, an enchanting 23km-long drive towards Canale brings you to the heart of Roero. Scattered among trees and vinyards, a watchful eye will spot numerous ruins of structures dating back to Roman times and later destroyed by barbarian raiders.

Just south of Alba, the Grinzane Cavour castle is open to visitors. This was the summer residence of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, champion of Italian unity. Located at Verduno is the Palace of Carlo Alberto, King of Sardegna, who abdicated in favor of his son, Vittorio Emanuele II after the defeat at Custoza in 1848.


Speaking of wine...

The Barolo Tour: Departing from Roddi in the direction of Verduno, you'll arrive at La Morra driving past miles of vineyards that grow Italy's most distinctive wines. Here, you'll have your first opportunity to sample the local truffles. At the:

Belvedere Restaurant,
Piazza Castello 5, La Morra
Tel: 0173-50190
owner Gian Bovio will present you with a mouth-watering dream concocted of truffles grown on his own property served with red wine. Afterwards, descending through vinyards burnished by the autumn sun you'll come to Barolo and its two castles, Falletti and Volta. Try the
Locanda del Borgo Antico.
Piazza del Municipio 2, Barolo
tel: 0173-56 355

Even the name conjures up fairy-tale images. Its specialty: Lamb chops with sautéed wild mushrooms. Try also:


L'Enoteca Regionale
Piazza Falletti, Barolo
tel: 0173-56277



Your journey proceeds towards Serralunga d'Alba and the Fontanafredda hunting lodge where Vittorio Emanuele II met with his lover, the "Bela Ròsin" (surely not to discuss the hunt...)

You can continue along down towards Dogliani where the best Dolcetto in the world is produced.



Another fascinating trip winds along two rivers, the Tanaro and the Bormuda. Departing from Treiso, go on through Barbaresco, which lends its name to a truly great wine, to reach Neviglie and the town of Neive which abounds in 16th and 17th century churches.



tips The best of the thermal baths/natural hotsprings

Visitors to the area should try the baths in neighboring Monferrato region, at Acqui and Agliano or at Lurisia, Valdieri and Vinadio (near Cuneo). The facilities feature mud packs, algae treatments and regenerative baths.


Piemontese cuisine

The Langhe cuisine has its origins both in the kitchens of the Savoy court kitchens and the humble hearths of local peasants. The emergence of the Piemontese cuisine as an entity did not occur before the middle of the 1800's, when refinement gave birth to such delicacies as Piemontese "mixed skillet", agnolotti, selvagina in salmì, lepre al "civet", fonduta con tartufi and bagna cauda .

Every great cuisine is built upon the foundation of quality ingredients. One of the cornerstones of the Piemontese cuisine is the locally bred and raised beef, which carries an official stamp certifying its origin. The meat is particularly tender and flavorful; perfect for pot-roast, stews and steaks. The region's cheeses come highly-rated as well, the most typical of these being "toma". Their popularity is likely due to the high fat content of the milk produced by free-ranging cows.

Porcini and truffles are at the heart of the seasonal delicacies this area has to offer.


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