RESTAURANTS IN LUCCA

The Lucchesi are as proud of their cucina, a simple type of cooking rooted heavily in the Garfagnana tradition, as they are of everything else they have to offer. La Buca di Sant'Antonio Via della Cervia, 1 Ph.: 0583-55881 Closed: Sunday Evenings Open since 1782, this is one of the nicest restaurants in the Luccan walls. Near the beautiful church of San Michele, La Buca di Sant'Antonio boasts delicious old Lucchese dishes such as smoked herring and crostini with pheasant patè. Da Giulio della Pelleria Via delle Conce, 45, Piazza S. Donato Ph.: 0583-55948 Closed: Sunday and Monday The Lucchesi love this place, and crowd it every day. A rather simple, but very Lucchese trattoria serving Garfagnana specialties such as farro, fagioli all'ucceletto, and the very Lucchese specialty, la cionca (pig cheeks). Also absolutely wonderful is the homemade biscotti with Vin Santo for dessert. The staff is sweet and willing to explain exactly what their different dishes are as well as the history of this restaurant heavily patronized by, as the Italians would say, VIPs. Trattoria da Leo Via Tegrimi, 1 Ph.: 0583-492 236 Closed: Sunday If the weather permits, sit outside here, there is a lively atmosphere and a kind of funky staff. The food is pretty good, especially the torta di verdura (vegetable tart) for dessert. Il Giglio Piazza del Giglio, 2 Ph.: 0583-494058 Closed: Tuesday Evening and Wednesday The place to go in Lucca for seafood. The outside seating on the piazza is very pleasant; inside there is a charming and comfortable atmosphere. Antico Caffè della Mura Piazzale Vittorio Emanuele, 2 Ph.: 0583-47962 Closed: Tuesday Very elegant affair right on the city wall with fancy specialties such as rabbit in a mint sauce. La Mora Ponte a Moriano Ph.: 0583-406402 Closed: Wednesday An outstanding restaurant in the outskirts of Lucca, La Mora has been run by the Brunicardi family for three generations. Excellent Lucchese cuisine, a fine wine cellar, a pleasant garden for the summer: everything to make a gourmand happy, including his pocketbook. Cafès, Bakeries, and Gelaterias Antico Caffè Di Simo Via Fillungo, 58 Closed: Monday Open from 1846, this ornate old caffè, once frequented by Puccini, is a Lucchese tradition. Go in and try one of their numerous delicious pastries or the Lucchese specialty, buccellato. It is also a gelateria. Taddeucci San Michele, 34 It is said that Taddeucci has the recipe for the most genuine and true buccellato. As buccellato goes, it is really good. Ask anybody from Lucca, and they will agree. Forno Giusti This little bakery is well known for its focaccia, said to be "la più buona che ci sia"(the best there is). La Veneta Via Veneto, 74 In the summer, this Lucca favorite always has a long line. Its goloso gelato is well worth the wait.

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