A Kayak Tour of Elba
by Barbara Kossy

Barbara Kossy writes about her unforgettable experience kayaking Elba Island: it's really as cultural and adventure as wild !

 

 


I was paddling around a very small (40 ft), cone-shaped rocky island topped by a tuft of green trees. The Isola Paolina, named for Napoleon's sister. The sea and sky were as soft and blue as the Madonna's cloak on a Florentine fresco. Fuzzy from jetlag, I was doing my best to take it all in and keep paddling. Raymondo and Daniela paddled by in their orange double with Basco, their wire-haired dachshund named after Tabasco sauce, in the center hatch. The coastline accented by bare volcanic rock, steep cliffs topped by vinyards and farm houses. Some of the sandy pockets of beach, quiet as the dawn, were dotted with small decorated fishig boats.


Marciana Marina

My kayak slid (I cannot say effortlessly) into the protected harbor of Marciana Marina. The stucco town glittered with the warmth under the midday sun. I was distracted by the simultaneous yuck of three sets of church bells. I could see the bell towers from the water and watch the bells swing back and forth as the musical clamor echoed from the sea walls. It was Saturday noon in Marciana Marina, a small town on the north shore of Italy's Elba Island. Colorfully painted and in various states of repair fishing boats, small yachts, sailboats, dinghies, and rubber rafts were harbored all around me.


Kayaking Elba

Sea kayaking Elba is definitely not a wilderness experience. It's really more of a cultural experience...one which starts a hot cappuccino, and ending it with an icy gelato, or a burning grappa.This is an island. We launched from the sand beach and followed the coast southwest, first past beaches, hotels, a German lookout post from WW II, pocket beaches, and rugged coastline. Colin trolled for fish. I slowed up a bit to try out my Italian on one of the kayaking students from Milan who seemed to be a patient sort of person. The sea was calm. The sun was warm but not hot, and the breeze was cool. My jetlagged brain doted on my surroundings.


Capo Sant'Andrea

After lunch we opted to paddle another couple of kilometers along the rugged, lightly inhabited coast to Capo San Andrea. At Capo I expected to find a small beach where we could land and rest a bit before we made a bee line back to Baia Badiola and Scaglieri, but as we closed in on the beach I spotted another little harbor with a signal light, anchored boats, and lovely beach, and more cafes. It seemed to me that arriving on the beach scene in a kayak was much cooler than arriving on even a Vespa, or Moto Guzzi. The wind picked up a little and helped push us home on our beeline back to Scaglieri.


Interested in the experience?

"Kayak through clear blue Mediterranean waters along volcanic cliffs, ancient towers, and coastal villages. Lunch on the beach or in a cafe, then paddle back to your seaside hotel. After spending a few days on Elba you won't want to leave, and when you leave, you'll vow to return..."

For more information, write Barbara at bkossy@igc.apc.org
or visit Elba's site: www.elbatuttanatura.com



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