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From Santa Severina to Torre Melissa
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The Greeks left their greatest imprints just to the north of the zone, in Sibari, and just to the south of Crotone at Capo Colonna. But the most lasting image of the region, whether along the coast or from above, is that of numerous castles and watchtowers. These imposing edifices were largely built during the Middle Ages to protect against Arab raids. At several different periods from approximately 700-1700 AD the coast was especially at risk from attack, and hence a series of watchtowers were constructed and placed in such a manner such that they could communicate with each other in case of attack.
Due west and inland from Crotone, the towering rock of Santa Severina affords a birds-eye view of the coast and would have been an ideal place to scan for incoming marauders. An important Byzantine fortress from the 700s, it later passed into Norman hands, then Angevin, Aragonese etc. It remained an important citadel under each ruler, who could use it as a stronghold not only against foreign attack but also local uprisings. Unfortunately the region has a rather sad history in this respect - as late as 1949 locals revolted (in the vicinity of the town of Melissa) against their feudalistic condition. Today the castle of Santa Severina is a museum, and the town, abound with beautiful churches and delightful clustered homes, is becoming recognized as a jewel. Come here in time to see the sun rising over the Ionio Sea, the first pink rays coloring the otherwise white castle. There should be nothing to cause alarm on the horizon. Descend to the coast to the main road N. 107, which follows the Neto River, a beautiful, fertile zone where the first Greeks settled. Today the river is a protected area, a bit of paradise to resident animals. After a few kilometers east leave the N. 107 and head toward Stróngoli. Pause in this charming village, which was the ancient Greek Petelia. Stróngoli made a name for itself in Roman times by successfully opposing Hannibal during his incursions on the peninsula - unlike Crotone and other cities that welcomed the Carthaginian warrior. As a reward for their loyalty the Romans rebuilt the town and allowed citizens to stamp their own money. In addition, as may be seen today in the Cathedral on four slabs of marble, Rome granted citizens an estate with a vineyard of the Aminee grape.
The Romans knew how to best compensate residents of Cirò. Today the hills around Stróngoli, Melissa and the town of Cirò are abounding with vineyards whose wine has achieved national and international recognition. The "Cirò" has earned D.O.C. status thanks to recent decades of hard work, diligence, and creativity on behalf of the winemakers. It is the Gaglioppo grape, believed to have been brought over by the ancient Greeks, that composes the classic Cirò. However recently winemakers have added Cabernet Sauvignon and other non-native grapes with some marvelous results. White wine is also made in the zone, from local Greco and other grapes. Wine enthusiasts should keep an eye out for the many excellent products that come from just outside the official Cirò area (and thus do not have "Cirò" on their bottle labels). Do not shy away, for example, from labels that read "Melissa", coming from the village of the same name: the wine can be just as delicious as the Cirò. Continue on the narrow mountain road passed the village of Melissa to that of Cirò (today known as Cirò Superiore), the heart of Cirò wine production. As throughout the itinerary, olive groves line the way alongside the vinyards, and there are stupendous views to the sea, distant villages and farms. The wealth of the zone attracted Arab marauders throughout many centuries: in fact the town of Cirò was founded by coastal residents fleeing Arab attacks in the 9th century (much like many villages and towns of the southern Italian interior). Along the coast today Cirò Marina has once again regained its glory. It was an important center in Greek times; today the Byzantine market is well worth a look.
From Cirò Marina head south along the coast back toward Crotone. After a few kilometers a great rotund watch tower will be visible on the right: this is the Torre Aragonese, the great watchtower of Torre Melissa. Pull up into its driveway for a better look. Originally built in the 12th century but rebuilt in the 16th under the Aragonese, the tower passed to several different noble families until finally passing to the Melissa Town Hall. Over the centuries natives were often abused by the ruling powers (a cardinal example being that of the Counts of Melissa, who exerted their right to "Ius Primae Noctis": the right to the bride on her wedding night), who did little to develop the region. Only very recently has the situation begun to improve: in 1998 GAL made the Torre Aragonese their home. Melissa in ancient Greek means "desert or honey"; hopefully life for natives will become as such in years to come as they begin to taste the fruits of their labor.
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