PalinuroPaestumAmalfiSant'Agata dei Goti
High Above Amalfi

Visitors often dread the hair-pinned drive along the Amalfi Coast, since although absolutely breath-taking the road leaves no margin for error: when a bus comes one must more or less pull oneself off the road which itself is often a great distance directly above the sea. On foot, however, one can enjoy the stunning views without having to worry about getting run off the road - although the steep nature of the terrain may make trekking here unadvisable for those afraid of heights or in less than average physical condition. Be aware of heat exposure and drink plenty of water, since the sun here is intense year round. Best time for walking is in spring and fall, from March - May and October-November; the spring is magnificent though Amalfi's climate is so clement that the region bursts with colors and heady scents for much of the year.

For much of the length of the coast runs a magnificent path high above the sea called the Sentiero degli Dei, "Trail of the Gods". It is not difficult to believe that this is a trail for deities: those walking the path are granted bird's eye views (at times feeling like airplane-views) of towns like Amalfi and Positano, with their multicolored homes and bathing establishments. Very few Amalfi Coast visitors make it up to this high semi-wilderness, because reaching the trail by foot from the coast requires a considerable uphill effort. There is however a regular bus service available to some of the little mountaintop villages that intersect the trail, but note that even walks commencing here may entail arduous ascents and descents.

From the center of Positano, you may begin the walk or instead take a bus directly to either end of the walk, to Santa Maria del Castello or Montepertuso. If you choose to hike from here, head up through the streets and stairs to the white church on the hill directly above the west side of the town (on the left looking inland). After the church cross the main road and follow the trail signed for Santa Maria del Castello, which heads merciless up on an unshaded dirt path. Finally, the mountain ridge and the village of Santa Maria del Castello are attained after some 1.5 hours from Positano; take a break and enjoy the spectacular views. At a trail intersection follow the Sentiero degli Dei to the east, leaving the village and soon entering a very suggestive cypress forest. The mountains here are equally stirring, and with them the silences, the tranquillity of a realm so far removed from the one down below. The sea, meanwhile, spreads out in front of you. After a pleasant 2 hours on the high ridge the trail descends to the village of Montepertuso. From here one may take the bus or walk back to Positano. On foot follow the road or attempt to find the best way down from through the maze of streets: for a bit of fun try asking directions from one of the old men in town! After another 45 minutes, with a bit of luck perhaps, one will arrive back in the center of Positano.

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