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Visitors often dread the hair-pinned drive along
the Amalfi Coast, since although absolutely breath-taking the road leaves
no margin for error: when a bus comes one must more or less pull oneself
off the road which itself is often a great distance directly above the
sea. On foot, however, one can enjoy the stunning views without having
to worry about getting run off the road - although the steep nature of
the terrain may make trekking here unadvisable for those afraid of heights
or in less than average physical condition. Be aware of heat exposure
and drink plenty of water, since the sun here is intense year round. Best
time for walking is in spring and fall, from March - May and October-November;
the spring is magnificent though Amalfi's climate is so clement that the
region bursts with colors and heady scents for much of the year.
For much of the length of the coast runs a magnificent
path high above the sea called the Sentiero degli Dei, "Trail of the Gods".
It is not difficult to believe that this is a trail for deities: those
walking the path are granted bird's
eye views (at times feeling like airplane-views) of towns like Amalfi
and Positano, with their multicolored homes and bathing establishments.
Very few Amalfi Coast visitors make it up to this high semi-wilderness,
because reaching the trail by foot from the coast requires a considerable
uphill effort. There is however a regular bus service available to some
of the little mountaintop villages that intersect the trail, but note
that even walks commencing here may entail arduous ascents and descents.
From the center of Positano, you may begin the walk
or instead take a bus directly to either end of the walk, to Santa Maria
del Castello or Montepertuso.
If you choose to hike from here, head up through the streets and stairs
to the white church on the hill directly above the west side of the town
(on the left looking inland). After the church cross the main road and
follow the trail signed for Santa Maria del Castello, which heads merciless
up on an unshaded dirt path. Finally, the mountain ridge and the village
of Santa Maria del Castello are attained after some 1.5 hours from Positano;
take a break and enjoy the spectacular views. At a trail intersection
follow the Sentiero degli Dei to the east, leaving the village and soon
entering a very suggestive cypress forest. The mountains here are equally
stirring, and with them the silences, the tranquillity of a realm so far
removed from the one down below. The sea, meanwhile, spreads out in front
of you. After a pleasant 2 hours on the high ridge the trail descends
to the village of Montepertuso. From here one may take the bus or walk
back to Positano. On foot follow the road or attempt to find the best
way down from through the maze of streets: for a bit of fun try asking
directions from one of the old men in town! After another 45 minutes,
with a bit of luck perhaps, one will arrive back in the center of Positano.
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