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Paestum

On the northern edge of the Cilento region, Paestum has become more popular with foreign visitors in recent years, though it is still a magnet for Italian families. It has some of the nicest, longest white sand beaches in Campania, and there are several fine beach resorts where one can rent comfortable chairs and umbrellas for the day, week or more. The best resorts, such as Atena, have superior restaurants adjoining, with extensive selections of fish just brought off the boat. Historically Paestum is one of Italy's most important agricultural areas, the flat, humid sea plain proving fertile for many fruits, legumes and most importantly livestock. In fact buffalo are among the zone's most prized possessions, their mozzarella shipped throughout Europe (and perhaps beyond).

The buffalo are thought to have been in the region since the Longobard period, but human habitation extends back much further. Paestum has of one Italy's most important Greek ruins, with temples dedicated to Neptune and Ceres as well as wonderful Greek wall paintings, particularly that of the Tomb of the Diver. Highly recommended as base for the region is the Agriturismo Seliano (www.agriturismoseliano.it), from which one may do day trips to the Cilento or the Amalfi Coast or bike to the shore (borrowing Seliano bikes), only a kilometer away. The Seliano family has been proprietors of a large agricultural estate since the Bourbon era, opening their home to the public recently after having transformed their main estate buildings into lovely guest residences. One feels most at home here - meals are served communally, everyone sitting at a long table, which is a great way to get to know the other guests and the hosts. The wonderful meals themselves are produced almost entirely from products grown on the Seliano estate. Extra virgin olive oil, limoncello, buffalo mozzarella, mushrooms, eggplants, olives, peppers and preserves are just a few of the agriturismo's offerings. Proprietor Baroness Bellelli also holds cooking classes for those interested in learning more about local Cilento cuisine, which takes much of its influence from Greek and Roman roots.

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