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Milano 2000-2001:
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| Milan's most recent menswear collections feature vibrant tones
and a sense of personal style re-discovered. Next year's man has a wide range of choices, allowing for somewhat eclectic trade-offs with guys and girls alike. It would almost seem the "urban cowboy" look à la "Fight Club" has had a big influence on the Italian fashion scene, although it's not clear if design inspired cinema or the other way 'round. The word eccentric best sums up the latest collections, which are characterized by the fusion (or confusion) of masculine and feminine styles, ad hoc creativity, decidedly un-Italian fabrics (do textiles have nationalities??) and arbitrarily soft/rigid lines. Depending. The Designers Etro
Donatella Versace Gianni Versace Dolce & Gabbana Laura Biagiotti
Alessandro Dell'Acqua An emphasis on new materials co-ordinated with knits marks this collection with optimal results. The Dell'Acqua man does, however, seemed dressed for the hills -- more specifically the Tibetan highlands-- and often, the designs seem to be the handiwork of a good Peruvian tailor... All in all, a range of styles, range of ideas, one guiding Italian hand. Romeo Gigli Giorgio Armani Nino Cerruti Krizia Roberto Cavalli Luciano Soprani |
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In
the midst of formal proposals, among all those jacket / trouser combos,
Dolce & Gabbana have struck again: Fur stoles and stole-collars dress
up conventional suits. Their brave, new tailoring has set a course
for comfortable, thoroughly-wearable garments with flair. 
Faux
furs, soft knits, soft lines, stole collars. All topped off with a
dollop of knitted cream... The Biagiotti man is changing his ways,
coming a lot closer than even Fendi to a luxury look. Signora Biagiotti
envisions this century's leading man dressed in attire both enveloping
and eccentric. 
The Armani collection sums up the entire philosophy of the week's
shows: attractive and natural styling, cut to the male physique defines
masculine elegance. The collection's triumph lies in its formal design
combined with a great deal of attention paid to detail: buttons, shoulders,
closures. The result is a long line, underscoring the natural form
of the body without over-accentuating specifics. 
Jackets of specially treated furs in smoky tones and shirts in
screaming contrast to the winter world. Cerruti has veered away from
innocuous and terribly predictable suits; away from trousers, jacket,
belt and shoes in perfect harmony. Finally a bit of confusion that
makes a lot of sense: a look which allows men to combine and separate
their "co-ordinates" according to mood and personal whim. 
Krizia
has opted to color the classic. The look is formal, yet dramatic.
Ultra traditional suits are paired with brightly-colored shirts and
metallic ties. Elegantly styled trousers are topped by a sporty leather
jacket. Cashmere is firmly on the scene, in jackets, unstitched coats
and knitwear.
Fringed knits, leather boots and snakeskin trousers. Animals better
beware this coming season, as designers take aim... Horse hide (pony
skin) remains firmly anchored to single-tone and multi-colored woolens
with ravelled finish, hanging one shoulder on the sloppy side of casual.
The overall effect is positive, comfortable. The show itself was decidedly
innovative: transparent panels were employed to create an impression
of movement and optical illusion. 
Collection
dominated by checks and pinstripes; trousers are accompanied by both
classic and less traditional jackets. More informal pieces are impressive
in their relative sobriety and in that personal touch Soprani never
leaves to chance.