1998 Spring/Summer Menswear Collection:
Luxury and show

by Renata Molho

Menswear collections for the 1998 spring/summer season feature soft but risque lines that appeal to anyone with an eye for luxury; to those with pronounced tendencies towards exhibitionism; to those who can carry off a disdainful pose.


The latest men's collections, heralding the 1998 spring/summer season, revolve around a central theme of luxury: a look set aside for quite a few seasons. This time around, luxury assumes many forms: a look total of "negation"; a disdainful attitude (see Prada's wide-leg calfskin knickerbockers) with its wildly mismatched sportswear, demolished refugee shoes with rolled-down socks; the look of luxury as exhibitionism,interpreted by Tom Ford for Gucci: rhinestone-studded underwear, gold watches, crocodile shoes worn with imposing, wide-shoulder suits (something of a parody of the '80s). The models sport a feathering of gray at the temples: a human touch, lending realism and intelligence to the overall effect.

Tradition and distinction
Used clothes, hand-me-downs: the stuff of tradition and likewise the sole means to escape the conforming masses and recover a personal aura of uniqueness (Benjamin). The key is to sort through the sheer quantity of offers, and the clones to discover a distinctive self.

Back to: