1998 Spring/Summer Menswear Collection:
Luxury and show
Soft lines
 Line are almost imperceptibly less rigid, softer, with cut and details setting
the course. We are seeing the return of short-sleeved shirts, survival of
the sandal and prescription bermudas.
There is a fresh view of fashion as the extension of such personal statements
as tatoos or piercing. Fashion is viewed similarly by Dolce e Gabbana whose
"second skin" collection features a large number of skin-tight
washed-out and worn midriff T-shirts. There are fashion features with tactile
distinctions as well: fabrics are ever more sophisticated, elasticized,
subtle and light: Zegna, Kiton and Brioni for example. Suddenly the anachronistic
concept of the suit (jacket, trousers, vest, tie) is showing signs of change.
This fashion standard that has been with us for about 200 years by now is
subtly changing.
The true challenge lies in satisfying increasingly sophisticated desires
which manage to maintain an aire of tradition and reflect a profound sense
of past: nearly all of the collections are suffused with a "second
hand" feel. In this vein, we recall a seminar on precisely this theme
Comsumption, usury in Urbino (home of a textile design university), where
the subject was debated by some of the most important European semeiologists
(students of the branch of knowledge dealing with linguistic signs and symbols).
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