DolceVita Fashion: Fall Trends

The Women of spring and summer

by Alessandra Mazzola

The world of fashion has its seasonal rhythms, though they are seldom in sync with the weather. While we're going about our daily lives in down parkas, furs and boots, the designers are busy creating and proudly presenting what we can expect in spring and summer. It's something of a tonic to see these first signs of sunshine, color and gentle breezes to come - to get a hint of Pina Coladas on the white and sandy beaches of la Dolce Vita…

Does this year's haute couture have something to give wings to our feminine aspirations? Let's hear the latest form the caatwalks and find out what we'll be wearing daytime and evening for Spring/Summer 2003! DolceVita's roving eye has taken a good look around Italy's hottest design studios and discovered two major trends: one expresses a women's ethereal essence with long, closely-draped skirts and flat sandals. The other interprets the more agressive side of feminine nature, brazenly baring thighs, breasts and bottoms.

KING ARMANI

He's led us away from the postage stamp-size mini at last! The Great Armani has declared floor-length skirts de rigeur this year, promoting a sense of mystery and leaving a promise of more to come to the imagination. It will come as a disappointment to those who consider the longer skirt dull: there's something in the collection for every woman, from siren to career woman to the most elegant of divas for evening. Farewell, and perhaps good ridance, to martial affectation, so get lost Lara Croft! Giorgio's girl has got some class. She's simple and chic, leaving plenty of space for her softer side without crowding out the seductress. A clingy body stocking complements a floor-length skirt with a pareo tied at the waist for flair. For a more classic look, there's a square-necked jacket with lateral buttons worn with a tube skirt hemmed at just below the knees. A gala evening da Giorgio is a flurry of feather-light fabrics with a peach blossom motif inspired by the Far East, or clinging sequin bodices atop billowing puffs of taffeta. An absolute stunner: the backless gown in silver held in place by tiny, invisibile straps. The beautifully draped white blouse are positively angelic. Their vaguely peasant character makes them perfectly suited to flat leather sandals laced at the ankles.

CAVALLI

The future brings a a mix of harrowingly high minis and long, sweeping flared skirts according to Roberto Cavalli, who’s packaged spring and summer in very flashy, very bright colors. The styles make the most of a perfect silhouette, offering the wearer an hour-glass look as well as a constricted chest, shortness of breath and stays that choke off the waist. The breasts topple out of their cups like drunks in the balcony seats and there are a thousand ribbons and ties. A form of Medieval torture? Almost…. Cavalli has resurrected the misogynistic corsette and made it the signature piece of his latest collection. Sexy indeed, without doubt, but will it catch on like the now-extinct tiger and zebra prints? The fabrics selected for this collection have something of the 1600’s courtesan, though the dresses and skirts are quite scanty. There are lovely oriental influences as well, particularly in wraps and kimonos. For evenings, asymetrical bodices in black or white are paired with ruffled skirts. Shoes are perilously high-heeled and tied at the ankle.

FENDI

There's a new concession to excess at Fendi: chiffon dresses with fringe of fine, gold chain, cascades of chains at the neck, plastic heels shaped like obelisks... Exceptional and very femminine satin dresses fall beautifully, gently hugging the torso to create a Fendi woman with the allure of a Baroque temptress. To counterbalance the profusion of gold, the colors used in this collection are fairly dark. The suggestion is one of a woman of mystery who's making a huge secret of everything but her own sense of self-worth and passion for unbounded luxury.FERRÈ This year's collection is an inspired tribute to the fashions of the 1940's when Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo were directing the show. Gianfranco Ferrè has presented a spring/summer 2003 season of enchanting woman, elegant with their Bogart-style Borsalino hats. There are pant-suits in pied de poule, dreamy little dresses in thrilling colors and the selection of skirt lenghts accomodates individual taste - and pocketbook! Highlights are leather jackets that seem to be made of cloth and about twenty retro-styled dresses curiously partnered with camoflage jackets. On the sporty side, overalls are complemented by shorts and sundresses in black and white stripes and the oversized sunglasses go everywhere. The long, contour-hugging satin evening gown triumphs at Ferrè as well, though here, it is also completely transparent...

GUCCI

The Gucci girl is a wildcat, aggressive with no false modesty about her muscles and curves. She's free of complexes and has no qualms about walking out in a micro-mini that would look at home on the tennis court, or a scanty pair of lace panties. The stance is arrogant and that lion's mane of hair and dark sunglasses let you know she's not fooling! The mini-dresses are superbly cut, and come in an exciting array of styles and colors; fabrics range from filmy orientals to stretch to the simplicity and natural charm of the strapless white number. In keeping with the 40's leit-motif, the silvertone peep-toe high heels complete the ensemble.

PRADA

The collection is colorful and very femminine, reminiscent of the 60's but tempered by a more contemporary touch. Satin mini-skirts abound in a range of wild colors, some embroidered with floral motifs. Most characteristic of this year's collection are perhaps the dresses decorated with stones and necklaces solarge they resemble bibs and breastplates.

VERSUS/ VERSACE

This girl is something of a mischievous imp who flat out refuses to toe the line! The hob-nailed skirt is an exclamation which turns joyous when paired with red patent-leather boots. There are suits of broad rose and red stripes, and canvas skirts ribbed with zippers. Jackets are tiny and tight at the waist. Fabrics used for this year's Versace collection are diverse and exciting: there are floral prints, abstract designs and a number of irregular stripes. This very care-free line has reintroduced the delicious baby-doll sun dress: pleated, colored and held in place by top-stiched bands. Bathing suits are something else as well - the extravagantly colored two-pieces are joined by straps running up both sides. Accessory of note? The thigh-high boots, what else?

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