The Three watch-words of winter:
Nude, sexy and colorful

by Ottavia Pavesi

Presented for the first time together, the Milano Collezioni Donna and Momi Moda Milano stepped onto the catwalk in tandem this year. This ambitious exposition comprised 150 shows and 350 collections, an exhausting fashion marathon which began on February 26th and ran ten full days. The most prominent figures in fashion gathered to lay down the ground rules for Winter '99.


Momi 99
Momi 99
Cividini
Fendi
Luciano Soprani
Mila Schön
Roberto Cavalli
Genny
Momi 99
At a press conference, Santo Versace, president of the Camera della Moda Italiana, once again emphasized the pivotal role played by Milano in the fashion world. "If New York represents the industrial, Paris the creative and London the innovative, then Milano is the synthesis of all these ingredients".

The first collections of the Third Millennium were met with euphoria. It's obvious that each of the designers has sought a new and fresh look -- one sure to leave a lasting impression on fashion history. The press was after hot news flashes -- reports of last-minute take-overs and hinted scenarios predicting the future of Made in Italy. Disgruntled buyers, little pleased by the hammering pace of one show after another, scrutinized the collections with a highly critical eye, standards cranked to the maximum.

The industry will have to wait until fall for the final, most telling verdict on these collections -- that of the public at large-- which always determines the true success of any given fashion move.

The three golden rules of winter...well, to start with, away with black entirely! Gone as well are monochromatic schemes and minimalism, opening the door to the variegated shades and hues of every color under the sun. No taboos on color, even in the coldest season, clears the way for red, orange, blue, violet, acid green, electric blue, earth tones and yellows. All charged full of vitality and drive, these colors reflect the principles of color therapy and new age philosophy. The freehanded use of color combined with natural textiles acts as a conduit leading to a new dimension, a more sound equilibrium.

Other trends include the nude-look: navels out, bare backs, shoulders to the wind. In every case (and in any weather!) bared breasts abound, thinly wrapped in tissue-thin organza veils and shirts.

Many designers seemed to have succumbed to the liberating qualities of plastic, neoprene and PVC, with varying degrees of success.

I N
long gloves, fringe and string-tie closures
pleats and drapes
furs
boots of any kind
peddle-pushers
high necks
hoods, capes, coats, stoles
skirts from super-short, knee-length and long

O U T
buttons
turtlenecks
mid-length skirts
black
the business blazer

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