Valentino's men's collection is "for the man who goes out with our ladies; not at all foppish. It doesn't follow the flock but relies rather on quality fabric. We've rediscovered an English cashmere from 1939 that must be touched to be believed." The collection's lines are soft, falling gently into myriad shades of grey.	"1999's jacket reaches to the knee, to be worn over low-waisted trousers. Colors? Grey, green, blue and faded browns. Comfort is the watchword of the entire collection."
Donatella Versace describes her "decadent millionaire" thus: "He's a man of natural elegance whose taste sets him apart." Here again, a great deal of attention has been paid to fabrics, Innovative jackets take of a geometric appearance with gussets, cutouts and inserts. Jacquard had been used for whole suits as well as jackets. "We've come up with jackets in three lengths: the classic length that Gianni loved so well, another cut like a morning coat, and a third which falls to 78 centimeters."	According to Krizia, jackets have got to be soft, sportswear has to have the colors very, very light (from ecru to flinty grey). Laura Biagiotti's man is one evidently one who conducts his business more in Cairo or Dubai. For him, the off-white or butter cream jackets, the trousers of gauzy linen. The Fendi sisters are showing flexible, soft jackets which go well with shirts.
Jackets which fit well through the shoulder, always a vest and gray everywhere. That sums up the designer's newest line, it's monochromatic approach tempered by what are, for men, daring fabrics such as taffeta and silk poplin.	"I avoided using any rigid fabrics for this collection, staying with flexible fibers obtained by combining synthetic with natural materials with an eye towards increased freedom of dress." Gigli's colors are primarily sandy, highlighted by luminous T-shirts and button-down shirts of blue, red, orange and yellow.
Angela Missoni has done the outrageous! She's fiddled with the cardigan, adding, altering and shifting lines 'til it can stand-in perfectly well for a jacket.	Alessandro dell'Acqua, the 35-year-old Neapolitan designer already in the limelight for several years, has just presented his first menswear collection in Milan. It is a delightful mix of Neapolitan traditions and British modernity with a dose of African spice. Black, white and fleshy tones; lots of knits and few jackets; skin-tone T-shirts bearing embroidered "sutures". The few suits in the collection are adorned with basting stitches.
The Byblos line was designed for the first time this year by John Bartlett, a young American talent come to rest in Italy. To give his collection a modern look, Bartlett has made use of traditional Maori prints and embroidery.	"We personally cannot tolerate an inflexible man." For Dolce & Gabbana, a man has to be a bit of a romantic clochard, a refined sort bricklayer of deeply Mediterranean looks, dark and expressive. And how is he dressed? Skin tight pants that are wide at the bottoms, skinny T-shirts and sweaters, jackets softer at the shoulder.

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