Moda Milano Uomo 2001
The Fall/Winter Collections



This year's menswear shows in Milano have opened on a fresh note: the calendar is studded with novel events and the cast of confirmed invited guests is impressive -- stellar enough to have confirmed once again Milano's title as fashion capital. A total of 56 shows are scheduled, 42 regular presentations and 7 by appointment only.

High-profile Italian fashion names on the internationally comprehensive list of participating designers include the following, who have caused ripples by the creativity, style and blatant audacity sheer audacity with which they have chosen to portray the 3rd-Millennium Man.

 

Versus

A triumph of extremes.
A young and aggressive collection featuring black and white Op-Art courageously accented by bright shards of turquoise and cyclamen.
Fabrics are conspicuous and exuberant: velvets, patent leather and faux crocodile leather.

 

 

Valentino

The return of the dandy.
The must-have element of this collection is the classic overcoat, but trimmed with a bit of mink, please. To complete the dandified gentleman look: a camel suit, driving gloves and pony-skin loafers. The total picture presents somewhat of a playboy with sophisticated and discriminating tastes. The colors are classics: black, dark browns, camel, ruby and a sprinkling of gold. Elegance is the operative word here.

 

GFF

GianFranco Ferré has taken his inspiration from a romanticized gypsy look, liberating in contrast to some of the other lines. The collection relies on coarser, "poor" fabrics such as flannel and worsteds, while the lines are soft and comfortable to permit full freedom of movement.
Trousers are large and full of pockets; shirts are full, worn with buckskin vests. Comfort and practicality with an exotic edge!

 

Fendi

The Fendi man is unruly, yet sophisticated. Leathers and furs are carefully (and tastefully!) combined with military detail to a stunning effect.
The total picture, something of a modern Easy Rider figure, represents the Fendi sisters' ideal man in appearance only -- these items won't be found in the second-hand shops no matter how hard you look! Each and every garment is masterfully crafted in cashmere and the finest quality leathers.

 

Roberto Cavalli

This designer made his Milano debut astride a Ducati Monster, roaring past the astounded faces of the public. The motorcycle was dressed, of course, by Cavalli as well, with a jewel-encrusted gas cap and handlebar grips in fur. Cavalli, too, has taken his lead from the great American Easy Rider myth, with a shredded stars-and-stripes shirt topped by a military jacket (softened by a flower) and silk camouflage pants.

 

Gucci

Jeans, black fur trenches, big jackets with Mongolian lamb and mink lapels.
Lines are more relaxed than we've been seeing, but the tailoring is superb. The phrase of the day would seem to be unostentatious luxury: quality will out, but only a discreet peek at a time...
Gucci's latest? Garments with a look of fallen nobility, like mink clipped down to a velvet pile. Wide to the point of eccentricity, a dashing suit in rose pink velvet; and then there are certain things which fly in the face of the traditional, such as a champagne colored tuxedo donned over a silk T-shirt of the same shade.

 

Nino Cerruti

One of Hollywood's most celebrated designers, this name bring cinema to the catwalk with the tuxedo worn by Tom Cruise in "Eyes Wide Shut" and the bottle-green trench line with mink that Jack Nicholson wore so nicely in "The Witches of Eastwick". The collection itself is centered around the combinable and the recyclable, starring useful pieces like the vest (as great over a sweater as under a jacket or coat!) There are also a fair number of more eccentric little items just for fun, like the goat skin chubby softening a very sober and classic pin-stripe suit.


part II


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