NAPLES: Streets of Fashion

There is certainly no dearth of big-name fashion in Naples, though perhaps not in the volume found in Rome or Milano. It's more interesting, though, to sniff out the Made in Naples specialties and the shops (often owner-operated) customarily frequented by locals. Piazza Amedeo, easily accessible by underground, is a good point to set off along the shopping streets. Going down V. Colonna, Buonanno is directly to your right (classic men's/women's) and a bit farther along at n.15 is Gay Odin, a traditional, old chocolate factory which is an absolute must for any self-respecting sweet-tooth. Continue along the via Dei Mille, stopping at the intersection with via Carducci, where Ricciardi is located at n. 57 (classically tasteful men's/women's) and which continues on into via Nisco. Check out Maxi Ho (women's n. 20 / men's n. 27 ). It's just the thing for fans of the more avant-guard labels like da Jean Paul Gaultier,Yohiki Yamamoto, Romeo Gigli, Dolce e Gabbana and Donna Karan. Turning into via dei Mille, you'll spot MHJ at n.32, which caters to the younger set (D&G, Moschino cheap and chic, Pinko). Eddy Monetti (n. 45), and Blasi (n. 27), and Marino (n. 6) are points of reference in terms of classic masculine dress. At n. 16, on the first floor of an elegant "palazzo", Amina Rubinacci , known in Paris as the "the Sweater-Queen", weaves her magic. She creates exclusively -designed women's pullovers characterized by their clean lines. Go down via Filangieri to n. 28, London House, that somewhat austere bastion of English style (womenswear downstairs) which, if not so terribly discreet, could boast of their illustrious clientele, from Umberto di Savoia to Eduardo De Filippo. Custom suits and shirts are available at the adjoining taylors'. A bit farther along, there's Olga Coppola (n. 16) as well as Gabriella (n. 23) featuringwomen's fashions, and Peter Pan for children. Piazza Santa Caterina is the site of Eddy Monetti womenswear boutique which offers an array of classic and refined styles. A brief deviation along the via Chiaia is obbligatory: the antique cafe "Caflish" can't be passed-up! Tramontano (since 1865) at n. 149 is THE address for handmade purses, luggage, belts, etc. The goods have made a name for themselves which extends beyond the confines of Naples. Returning to the piazza Santa Caterina, follow the contours of the elegant piazza dei Martiri, lined with the shops of Emporio Armani, Ferragamo, jewelers Vendome and Knight as well as the charming " la Caffettiera", a most popular meeting place for a snack and an apperitive. At n. 15 di via Morelli, take a look into Livio De Simone, with the sunniest of robe-chemisier garments and accessories . The street is most noted however for its antique shops, which carry some 18th-century Naples' finest From the Piazza dei Martiri, you can enter via Carlo Poerio and wander freely through the adjacent streets, or else head towards the exclusive via Calabritto, with its high concentration of designer labels. Veering to the right, there's Mario Valentino, pretigious Made in Naples shoe manufacturer whose ultra-feminine footwear has graced more than one cover of Vogue. Just beyond this, the windows of Prada, Le Must de Cartier, Versace, Vuitton, Diego della Valle, Cacharel and Valentino. Don't skip over Bruno & Pisano on the left-hand side (men's fashions and accessories, Simplement (women's high fashion and accessories by Giorgio Moretto, Saddler, Guido Pasquali) or Giorgio (mens/womenswear plus high-quality knitwear). Finally, turning the corner at the Riviera di Chiaia, just to the right at n. 287, you'll find Marinella, a minuscule shop overflowing with ties of every size and color (also made to order). Numbered among their clientele: Kennedy, Bush, Gorbaciov, Agnelli.

• Hotels and restaurants in Naples

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