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Ferré
Ferré
women are looking ahead to a winter of furs and leather, warm and
well-dressed without renouncing the elegance of a classic suit. The
streamlined styling is anything but 9:00 to 5:00, doubling its appeal
with the season's star accessory -- a broad leather belt cinched in
tightly at the waist.
The look defines a determined woman; a woman who carries off a classically
man-tailored suit complete with tie and asserts her femininity with
a sheer silk blouse and wasp waist.
And what does the woman-who-works wear in the evening? The more predatory
selections include trousers glittering with sequins paired with a
tiny fur stole snaking around a bare torso, while a more eccentric
character might feel more at home in a dress of fuchsia tulle fit
for a princess with slippers to match.
Armani
Leather
flight helmets and aviator's glasses are Armani's accessories of choice
for the coming Fall/Winter collections.
There's a wide-ranging, somewhat military feel to the line which combines
little harem jackets with pant-skirts flaring out below the knee or
tightly tucked into cavalry boots.
The leit-motif of the collection's skirts, shirts, jackets, trousers,
tops and shoes seems based on a desire for clear-cut definitions of
black and white, good and evil; on a search for inner courage.
L'esprit de corps for the evening calls for sequined dresses complete
with leather caps, of course!
Gucci

Gucci's girls are in a shadowy place, somewhat reminiscent of
Morticia Addams.
Garments and make-up are darkly Princess-of-the-Night, predictably
accessorized with dog-collars, crucifixes, high and spiky heels with
ankle-wrapping straps that recall bondage .
From raincoats to long gowns, the designer calls to the lady's dark
side with a promise of tattoos and plunging necklines baring as much
back as navel. Colors unremitting black and deep browns.

Fendi
So much fur flying in the face of animal rights
groups this year, Fendi's zoo is right in line with Gucci's Cruella
Deville!
Apart form fur accessories, wool dresses are decorated generously
with fur expertly worked to resemble the bark of a tree. The collection's
strongest statement is a right and proper foolish: a fox stole with
no less than five meters of train.
Biagiotti
The
collection, a smooth celebration of Laura Biagiotti's 30-year career,
was presented recently on the stage of Milano's Piccolo Teatro, where
to designer greeted the audience with her daughter Lavinia.
An enchanting sort of time machine, the collection is set on "future",
with a styling to suit big-sized women featuring cream-colored cardigans,
skirts and pant-skirts.
Dresses and blouses are playfully sheer and unbuttoned to the waist.
A backwards glance to the look that made Biagiotti famous in 1978
features a lovely version of her little princess dress in cashmere.
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