The Women of autumn

by Alessandra Mazzola


After a summer of wind and rain, the warm embrace of winter fabrics promises a welcome change. Cuddling up against the chill of the big, grey city has never sounded so good! This year's collections are sure to satisfy even the most demanding woman's needs…

DolceVita has been checking out the pret-à-porter proposals for this season, and we're ready to you through the latest developments for Fall/Winter 2002-2003. As always in recent decades, there is a little something for everyone in high-end fashion, from the most staid of the traditionals to the most eccentric, all strung along a common thread of good taste and glamour.

The Man-eater

PRADAIf she thrives on the desiring glances of those around her, and she's definitely a PRADA girl, that puts a sexy foot forward no matter what the weather! She's a femme fatale with cheek, dressed in a see-through raincoat which does absolutely nothing to hide the suit that's more baby-doll than career girl.
She can just as well turn herself out like a 50's diva, saving room for just a taste of insolence in her choice of acid of yellows and oranges in every hue. Heels are once again perilously high, but more closely resemble cigar tubes than straight-pins. Ankle-boots have the "no" vote this season, as an inch of exposed ankle is part of the overall image of seduction. Once she's got your attention, this woman delivers the coup de grace
By means of a thin veil of synthetic stocking which ends just below the knee. 100% pickpocket-safe is the strapless leather Prada bag, carried firmly under the arm.

GIANFRANCO FERRE' offers a touch of class, offering a series of classic pant and skirt suits in leather or fur-lined and cinched in firmly at the waist.
The pliable materials hold the body in a comforting embrace. Wool dresses sport high collars - and generously cut decoltées in the back! Thin bands of satin accentuate the body's natural symmetry.
A fur stole, somehow quite elegantly violet, is wound around the neck and shoulders of another model like a fuzzy boa, leaving the tummy and back exposed. The coordinating sequined trousers catch attention as well as the light,
creating quite a brilliant effect.
FERRE'

"Nevermore"-Raven Black

Just a little scary, the GUCCI girl. Her neck is hung with crucifixes and beads black as sin, while hers wrists are weighted with bands of stainless steel. This is the proverbial naughty little girl, all grown up. She's a darkly haunting vision in her devilishly high heels; it's a glamorous vision both aggressive and disobedient. Trousers are extremely tight and very long, paired with bat-wing sleeved blouses. Oh, and Gucci's woman wouldn't dream of leaving the house without a rigid leather vest or that little fur chubby in mink and anaconda for special occasions!

The same "Don't Mess with Me!" message is going out from KRIZIA's fall/winter collection, which features wickedly short little dresses with sleek boots that go clear over the knee. The hemlines are trimmed in tufts of fur, just to let everybody know that even the toughest girl on the block's got a sense of style.

The Nostalgic Female

ANNA MOLINARIBy stark contrast, designer ANNA MOLINARI has dreamed up a woman who seems to have stepped out of a storybook and is peeking out at the world from behind a gossamer curtain.
All the fabrics are airy and refined, full of movement. The layered silk skirt is a perfect example, as is high-waisted cream-colored creation studded with a fine mist of tiny pearls and lace. Accessories include wedged shoes in crocodile, aged leather belts cinched around jackets and blazers recalling Dr. Zhivago.

The Vamp

FENDIThe Vamp loves all that is luxurious, glamorous and -- above all - expensive. , She'll find everything to her tastes at FENDI this season, where she'll be covered in fur and jewels.
The red fox shawl-coat is a full three meters long, and it will suit her to a "T" , worn over a micro-mini dress of transparent chiffon, the shorn sables, the mink with knit and the pony-skin paletot. This Cruella DeVille just LOVES animals - especially on her back in winter!
The line is not without its irony however, as evidenced by the 70's dresses under generous wraps. Accessories are interesting: bags in Ostrich, fur and leather and boot sandals in suede enhanced with stud.

CAVALLI'S line is not going to let anyone go unnoticed! A devotee of this designer is going g to find herself swathed in a fur larger than she herself, caressing her from bottom clear up to the ample fur collar at her chin. From the waist down, she'll be stunning - and a little startling - in pantsuits of fabric sporting a pattern of huge jewels.
For evenings, the leather suit is a must, whether in solid colors or leopard-print.
And the shoes? They follow suit of course, as laced-up sandals that extend to mid-calf and teeter on spiky heels.
CAVALLI



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