Urban Grays: Winter 1998's New Man
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Prada: Technology and innovation
Prada strikes out this season on its own: coats are few, but quilted jackets are tops and, thanks to technical methods worthy of an engineer, they're more than warm enough. Velcro comes into play in place of buttons on many, with nylon serving as a sort of thermal shield. The trimmed-down lines recall the essential designs of the 1960's: hanging tops, somewhat shorter, tapered trousers and a number of vaguely scientific details. Hybrids as well, the shoes resembling classic lace-ups, or golf shoes or track shoes or.... Not beautiful, perhaps, but provocative and transitory-- on the verve of mutation. And that's the very point. There are basically two style categories. the alternative to classic footwear has a somewhat strident quality. something straining the tether of it's own design as if it has not yet arrived at it's finished product. Nothing seems quite complete, as though still in the uneasy state of transformation.
Valentino
Giorgio Armani
Victor Victoria
Fendi
Zegna
Costume National
Gucci
Romeo Gigli
Westwood, Moschino
Etro
Dolce & Gabbana
Conclusions?
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