DolceVita Fashion: 1997 Fall/Winter Collections

Multi-fashion Never before has the fashion scene seemed so well up to the task of moving with the common rhythm. By representing a variety of styles and trends, they have effectively mirrored both sides of the coin: one more conservative and one more tangental domesticated but individualistic. Many houses choose not to take chances and create quality collections devoid of the flash and "fun" of other designers.The garments are well-proportioned and well-cut from traditional farbrics indisputably wearable classics which are the trademark of houses such as Max Mara, Genny and Maska. By contrast, houses like Victor Victoria and Piazza Sempione to flow with the current trends; are more modern and sophisticated. 80's revisted There's an established pattern going on of revisting fashion history decade by decade. At the moment we've arrived at the '80s with the return of shoulders, career dressing, the return of the suit, monochromatic schemes, and co-ordinates. For the last two seasons, Mila Schon is experiencing a lively period. Her latest collection is among the most interesting of classical lines presented by a young designer this season. Another notable young designer is Alessandro Dell'Acqua who has given us a feminine image lifted straight out of Kerouac: sqeezed into cut-off t-shirts, wobbling on high heels. Ter e Bantine with their line of minimal-coverage urban dresses have attracted attention. Pret-à-porter : spectacular but pragmatic The Italian prêt-à-porter collections unite aspects of the spectacular and the pragmatic demonstrated in more extreme terms on the runways of London, Paris, New York. Everything in moderation even eccentricity. An exchange of experience and knowledge between the various houses is evident in the diversity of styles shown.

Gucci message clear Gucci's concept comes over loud and clear. Women à la Allen Jones, metal spike-heels, patent-leather collars atop slinky silk, stretch or wool dresses. Gucci-designer Tom Ford has proposed a return to "dressing to the occasion". His styles and varying lengths are extreme and contrasting. Rarely using a touch of color (a few of the shirts and cape-linings), Ford's theme is "basic black". The effect is sophisticated and rich. Shoulders are reinforced, the figure feminine and powerful. Istante's collection is delightful, featuring great little numbers in crushed velvet with contrasting borders lending them a somewhat Grecian appearance leaning towards Art Déco. Two-tone corduroy jackets compliment the dress line. Lawrence Steele, young talent This budding young designer's line of leather trousers lose their usual "hard-guy" image under tight-waisted Tartan dresses worn with classic army-style boots of blue cut-silk velvet. The outfit is topped off by a luminescent black lace camisole. Dazzling Prada Flash and enthusiasm at Prada: the violent contrast between the severe, chunky-heeled shoes and the soave demeanor of sparkle encrusted foureaux pinpoints the intersection of discipline and design, emphasizing purity of line and answering a renewed call for Oriental decoration and detail. Even grey flannel takes of a bit of glitz from Swarosky. The Italian Renaissance of Romeo Gigli Romeo Gigli, speaking of the renaissance of Italian fashion, has returned Milan this year with an extraordinary collection. His presence has been missed for several years, during which he showed in Paris. Soft lines, tiny needle-point borders on jackets, the most beautiful velvet seen to date. These creations are marked by a precious detail, are rich in chromatic scale, accented by embroidery, hand-painted floral designs, and unique beaded fabrics reminiscent of Drecoll's. Striking a another '20s note is Moschino, now liberated from any show of cheap sensationalism and has been inspired by Avant-Guard Russia, constructivism, and even perhaps by Pabst's Lulu. Diamond shapes, geometric lines and romantic pleated skirts. Versace continues to regenerate Gianni Versace has once again demonstrated his capacity for growth and renewal. Few trousers and no glaring prints disturb the stern and sober aire of his latest collection. Slim black suits, basic dresses tailored to permit a glimpse of skin serve as decoration. Wide bands of color, light fabrics and contrasting materials are used in geometric formations in the sense of Yves Saint Laurent. The collection bodes a unique tranquility. Armani Coordinates The pret-à-porter collections concluded this week, as always, with the presentation of Armani's new line. Shawls, irridescent make-up, glittering hair and sprkling new fabrics mark the collection. The interchangeable pieces create an intoxicating blend. Seams are double-stitched in gold, lacquered moccassins complete a draping wool evening gown, a jet-black handbag accessorizes a cool wool suit. Characteristic are the straight, fitted lines, richness of braid and ribbon trims and a luxurious black velvet evening gown studded with chrystals. A timeless look with an eye to the contemporary.