Pragmatism and New Age. These two terms sum up the primary inspiration behind
the spring/summer lines presented in Milano. The pervasive images are based on a strong
new solidity and concrete styling, united with an expression of a universal search for the
spiritual -- a need to explore the intangible and seek out the ethereal. Next spring sees
the return of soft, wrapped fabrics combined with geometric forms and asymmetrical lines.
A strong undercurrent of the precarious persists: slight shoulders, slipping straps, the
scooped neckline which threatens to slide away, the perilously high, gait-altering heels.
Mixed and more
Various styles and types of dress are being combined to create completely original
effects. This was clear from the very start of the spring/summer shows, where models
completely swathed in sheer and impalpable veils emerged from Berber tents. The current
direction is a synthesis of sensuality and evocative contrasts fusing the undercurrents
and symbols of East and West, blending modesty and provocation in different moods and
tones.
THE DESIGNERS
Etro
Energetic and healthy-looking models whiz down the catwalk in radiant garments of stiff
and sheer combinations which are not in the least ethnic but rather turned out with a
universal touch. As always, the cut is precise, the lines clean. Wrapped skits are
featured with fine but simple shirts, strategically-placed slits which are functional
rather than flirty. Colors tend toward clear, muddy tones of greys, green and browns.
Industria
Barefoot in the grass: flowing dresses which wrap the body with a such familiarity and
freedom, they seem to be flung rather than cut. The fabrics are unconstrained and rich.
It's a coherent collection aglow with powdery tones, again reflecting the theme of light
airiness around which most collections revolve.
Prada
The well-known house presented primarily opaque pieces, crafted in such stiff fabrics as
satin and hemp. The dresses have their volume shifted towards the back, a rigorous but not
severe effect. Prada continues to seek out contrasts and dissonance, to sound out the
complex relationship between creativity and technology. The clothing seems hung over the
body, an effect created by the latticed sheer bodice, featuring irregular machine
stitching. Geometric or computer-generated prints, shiny beads form irregular, horizontal
lines and dashes in a delicate, wearable Morse code.
Mila Schön
Panels, stripes, geometric shapes and asymmetrical cut-outs. Imprecision e loose threads
break up the rhythm. Characteristics found perhaps in all the lines, but it's the
interpretation that counts!
Gucci
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Romeo Gigli
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Versace
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Alberta Ferretti
was ahead of the times with dresses apparently made of light, easily mistaken for
undergarments. Now everybody is doing it, weaving inconsistency and transparency into
their creations . Many have interpreted her style into something obsessively revealing.
Among the most suggestive of these translates into a nearly nude look-- Lawrence Steele
has come up with flesh-colored veils designed to wrap the body, accentuating certain
anatomical areas - breasts, navel and pelvis - with a delicate cascade of rhinestones. The
effect is akin a stylized figure of a woman by Cocteau.
Alberto Biani
A very special and elegant collection which chooses not to follow the current trends,
presenting impeccable, less extravagant garments.
Gucci
A serious collection, both cautious and luxurious which is luminous in detail but
fundamentally dark. Skirts present an elongated silhouette, reaching to just below the
knees. Backs are often deeply cut, the shoulders broad. Shoes are sling-backed heels of
crocodile and patent leather.
Versace
Commotion and prolonged applause for Versace. An eccentric yet harmonious collection, full
of contrasts in fabric and geometric forms. Constructed jackets without lapels and
buttons. Wraparound or flutteringly light dresses , bustiers with tiny shorts. For
evening, the collection is a procession of gathers, plunging necklines and backs,
irregular lines.
Romeo Gigli
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Dolce e Gabbana
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Callaghan
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Giorgio Armani
Stays true to his own sense of style, softening it a bit. Defined shoulders, bright
contrasting stripes for trouser suits worn with redingote or short jackets. Clingy, sheer
dresses, draped garments belted with Judo sashes-- opposing elements combined with his
customary flair. A great deal, in fact too much transparency, even if it is executed with
discrete use of sheers and needlework.
Gianfranco Ferré
A monumental collection! Scalloped edges, lace and ruffles infuse the clothes with motion
and make for an exciting silhouette. Materials range from voile and organza to dyed python
and nylon mesh. As always , the white blouses are marvellously constructed, the volume of
each piece sumptuous and spacious, but perhaps this time it's all a bit too theatrical for
everyday wear.
Romeo Gigli
Romantic but of gentle proportions, the collection represents a liberal interpretation of
pre-Napoleonic fashion, designed for skeletal figures and the barely-there bust line.
Lace, prints, needlework, brocades and oxford cloth are combined in a fresco of fusion.
Krizia
Fitted jackets short and irregular hem lines and long djillabas. With their fluttering
ribbons and bands, the simple and lightweight tunics resemble small kites flying high in
this gracious and refined season.
