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 Around Ferrara, they measure their good fortune by the size of the stem or by sticking a needle into the rind. These old country ways are sadly disappearing, but fortunately not the old-style cuisine. Ferrara's Antica Trattoria Volano's (Via Volano 20, ph. 0532-761421) got pumpkin hiding in the cappellacci (similar to tortelli) puff pastry, as does the perfectly formed "tortelloni" at the rustic 15th-century Frantoio (Circlo Arci Nova, Via Baluardi 51, ph. 0532-761698). The aristocratic and staid Renaissance city grants the pumpkin somewhat less attention than does Mantova, however. Actually, relations between the gentry of the Estensi and the Gonzaga families are amicable: why argue and feud over a bunch of pumpkins anyway? This explains why the prize for best pumpkin recipe always goes to the city of Mantova.
Recipes with Pumpkin
Betta's stuffed pumpkin
Ingredients:
1 pumpkin with a stem, approx. 4 kilos
1 package of sliced sandwich bread, trimmed of crusts, toasted and cubed
7oz grated Gruyere
3.5 oz grams grated parmigiano
2 Cups fresh cream
salt and pepper to taste
Cut a 15/20 cm. circle in the top of the pumpkin. Hollow out the inside, removing all threads and seeds. Salt the interior of the pumpkin liberally.
Fill the pumpkin by covering the bottom first with a layer of bread cubes, sprinkle with Gruyere and parmigiano. Add salt and pepper and repeat until the ingredients are used up.
Add the cream, replace the top, and wrap the whole thing in aluminum foil. Set the pumpkin in a shallow baking dish. Cook in a hot oven for about 1hr 45min, at which time remove the pumpkin top and add more cream if necessary.
Rewrap the foil over the top and continue cooking for another 1hr 45min. The top is really only there for looks and therefore doesn't need to be cooked.
When cooked, remove the pumpkin from the oven. Gently scrape the pulp from the sides of the pumpkin using a wooden spoon and spatula, mixing it with the filling until blended to a cream. Replace the top and serve.
Arneo Nizzoli's
Pumpkin Tortelli alla Mantovana
(serves 6)
1 lb. cooked pumpkin
7oz. Mantova mostarda
4oz. crushed amaretti cookies
pinch of nutmeg
bread crumbs and parmigiano cheese
For the filling:
Mix together all ingredients into a well-blended paste.
Pasta:
Prepare the pasta, pounding it thin with a mallet. Fashion boat-shaped tortelli measuring approx. 10 cm. Fill them and boil them in salted water for 11 minutes. Dress with sautéed minced onion or clarified butter.
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