The arrival of fall to the countryside surrounding Alba and Monferrato heralds a flurry of fairs, festivals and markets selling the region's fragrant white truffles as well as the splendid locally-produced wines and cheeses. It's a golden moment for local restaurants, whose menus feature such regional delights as fonduta (a Piedmontese egg, milk and cheese dish) tagliolini pasta and risottos, all sprinkled over with fine shavings of white truffles.

• Alba
• Asti
Truffle-based Recipe

OK, but what exactly are truffles? That delicious aroma...famous from the time of all antiquity...at a cost of L. 1.500.000 a kilo which means 420 $ per 500 grams. It's a hypogeous fungus that grows about 20-30 centimeters underground near the roots of trees. They are so difficult to locate that specially trained dogs are used. The truffle has an irregular, rounded shape and a rather lumpy surface. It takes on colors and various scents from the plants in its vicinity. There are two types of truffles, the white and the black; of the white truffles, the most famous come from Alba and Asti in Piedmont, and from Acqualagna in the Marches. Notable black truffles can be found in Norcia and Spoleto in Umbria. The gathering seasons differ among the types: the white truffles of Alba and Acqualagna are found between the beginning of October to the end of December. The prized black truffles of Norcia and Spoleto, with their delicate flavor, are gathered from the beginning of December to mid-march. There is also the tartufetto bianco, which is generally gathered from January to April, and the black summer truffle, also referred to as "scorzone", which can be found between May and December. This last is particular in that it can be cooked--and it costs only Lit. 200.000 a kilo = 60 $ per 500 grams. Truffles do not keep well, and are therefore generally eaten within eight days, as they lose their aroma. They are normally eaten raw, sliced with a special tool called a tagliatartufi over tagliolini, eggs, fonduta, rice, ovuli mushroom salad or thinly-sliced raw meats. As the cost is high, 10-15 grams or 1/2 ounce are enough to season a dish well.

Truffles year-round
Although truffles are traditionally an autumnal treat, it is possible to enjoy them nearly year-round. The Fiere di Acqualagna stocks the white truffles until the end of October, the prized black truffles until the end of February, and the summer truffles until August. Truffle specialties and products from Acqualagna, such as truffle butter, sauces, patè, mushrooms with truffles, truffle cheeses and a multitude of other treats, are shipped world wide. For details call: Comune di Acqualagna, piazza Enrico Mattei 9, Acqualagna (Pesaro), ph. 0721-796741, fax 0721-799044.