Langhe has long fought to wrest from Monferrato, an area celebrated for its rich and antique traditions of winemaking and fine foods, its culinary crown. Asti, a township in the Monferrato region and Alba's traditional rival, is a cultural as well as gastronomic journey, as the the the austerity of the medieval towers in the historic "old town" gives way to the tenuous colors of Baroque facades. Piazza Statuto is a perfect point to set off exploring. At dawn of every fall morning, the"trifolau", or truffle hunters, gather to begin their search.
From the Piazza to the city center along the main streets Piazza Alfieri and Corso Alfieri, the way is lined with famous pastry shops (just try to beat the cakes at Palio, or the rum astigiani, or the hazelnut cake, or the baci di dama and torroni...), salami shops (for the salami known as "cacciatorini" and local cheeses such as robiole and tome) and bakeries (try grissini and grissie, typical hard breads)
The most significant monuments are found in this zone: the Collegiata di San Secondo, erected between the 11th and 15th centuries, the Roman baptistery called Rotonda di Sa Pietro, and also the palazzo where writer Vittorio Alfieri was born.
Shows, exhibitions and traveler's tips
On November 23rd, Asti will host a regional fair spotlighting truffles and other delicacies typical to the area. These would include apples, chestnuts, sweets and local cheeses. An antique market is set for the same day.
Many of the surrounding villages hold put on similar fairs: Costigliole on November 30th and Moncalvoe on October 26, are a few.
A complete events calendar and details can be obtained from: Comune di Asti, Ufficio Turismo, ph. 0141-399482.
Hotels
Ad Asti:
IL Palio
via Cavour, 106
ph. 0141-34371
fax 0141-34373.
Double room approx. L. 220.000.
Quite centrally located, 29 rooms.
Surrounding areas:
At Cioccaro di Penango (a circa 20 km from Asti):
La Locanda del Sant'Uffizio
ph. 0141-916292
fax. 0141-916068.
Double room L.260.000.
Housed in an antique convent in the countryside, the hotel offers a luxurious and romantic stay. It is without doubt the best hotel in the area, featuring a garden and pool. Its restaurant is one of the best. House specialties include gnocchetti filled with truffle-infused fonduta and goat shanks in a tasty crust. Local products are also for sale on the premises.
Restaurants
In Asti's city center:
the very famous "Gener Neuv"
Lungo Tanaro 4
ph.0141-557270
L. 70-95.000
offers the specialties that earned the restaurant its Michelin star: the Piedmontese antipasti and the lasagna.
Also centrally located is the "L'Angolo del Beato"
Via Guttuari 12
ph. 0141-531668. L. 45.000-75.000.
On the outskirts, in Caniglie (a 5 km. from Asti), try Da Dirce, Via Valleversa 53,
ph. 0141-272949. L. 35/45.000